Giorgio Armani Spring 2027: Family Dynamics

by · WWD
Giorgio Armani Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Milan Fashion WeekGiovanni Giannoni/WWD

Is Silvana Armani a rebel down deep? Her sophomore ready to wear collection for the brand her uncle founded, designed and ran for half a century was called “Evolution,” and she’s taking it in her own direction.

She made history on Sunday morning at Armani/Teatro introducing cotton onto the runway, something Giorgio would have never done.

“He didn’t like it, he thought it was too humble a fabric. But I adore cotton, so I added it,” said the designer who sent out a lineup of fluid, wide-leg cotton trousers and roomy knee-length shorts teamed with everything from hoodie windbreakers to jackets with strong shoulders mined from the brand’s 1980s archive.

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Cotton was a smart call with the summer weather stretching into autumn, as it did in Milan this week. From now on, all the wool suits — even the lightweight ones — will have to wait in the wings a little bit longer.

The rebel in Silvana also opened up the family photo album, and sent out an embellished bomber with a portrait of her uncle, dressed in black tie, collaged onto the surface. She also reproduced Giorgio Armani’s first Holy Communion suit, and the company later revealed a black-and-white image of the designer wearing it on the big day.

The dark, double-breasted suit was instantly recognizable on the piazza-like catwalk because it was worn with a tie — a rarity nowadays — white gloves, and a rosette on the lapel. With covered buttons, slash pockets and roomy trousers the suit looked fabulous, and should also work for weddings, bar mitzvahs and confirmations.

Suits, an Armani staple, were a highlight of the show. Jackets were longer with strong shoulders inspired by the brand’s ’80s shapes. Paired with a wider trouser, they’ll flatter a lot of figures. Tuxedo jackets in black and navy blue stood out, and will look terrific over all the sparkly evening dresses.

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Evening wear, as always, played a big role and ranged from the minimalist — as in a slim gown with a deep V at the front — to the lavish.

Cropped sequin jackets shone as if they were covered with ice crystals, while a white gown shimmered with long, loose fringe that resembled streaks of water. A sparkly gown with tiny butterflies on the spaghetti straps, and at the neck, was a dazzler.

There is still some evolving to be done. Bustiers, worn over statement skirts and trousers, looked stiff and uncomfortable, while some of the narrow trousers, and a glittering batwing jacket, embraced the 1980s a little too enthusiastically.

But balancing past and present, and personality with family loyalty, is never easy.