Greek Fashion Arrives in Milan With Business in Mind

by · Greek City Times

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Greek fashion has arrived in Milan this week with a commercial agenda. Enterprise Greece is supporting 19 Greek brands at WHITE Milano, the contemporary fashion trade show running from 24 to 27 September alongside Milan Fashion Week.

The distinction between appearing at Milan Fashion Week and exhibiting at a trade show matters. Milan may supply the glamour, but WHITE is fundamentally a place to do business. Founded in 2002, the trade show now brings together more than 350 brands, around half of them international, across several venues in the Tortona fashion district. Its audience includes buyers and industry professionals from more than 100 countries.

For the Greek labels showing there, the value of Milan is therefore not simply being seen during fashion week. It is access to the people who decide what appears on shop floors and e-commerce sites months later.

WHITE’s international buyer network lists retailers including Printemps, Le Bon Marché, Galeries Lafayette and La Samaritaine in Paris, Mytheresa in Germany, and Italian names such as 10 Corso Como, La Rinascente, Antonia, Tessabit and LuisaViaRoma.

This September’s edition stretches beyond conventional womenswear into accessories, resort, lifestyle, urban and streetwear. WHITE On The Beach is dedicated to resort and leisure collections, while WHITE Box focuses on emerging contemporary and urban labels.

That breadth is particularly relevant to Greece, whose fashion identity abroad has often been associated with summer: linen, cotton, swimwear, sandals, handwork and clothes designed around the rhythms of Mediterranean life. Those codes have proved commercially useful, particularly as Greek tourism has expanded its international reach, but the country’s design industry is considerably broader.

WHITE’s current September directory, which remains a work in progress, includes a cross-section of Greek fashion names at very different stages of development. Among them are ACCESS, Haris Cotton, Dimitris Dassios, Ioanna Kourbela and Kióhne.

Their histories complicate any suggestion that Greek fashion is a single aesthetic.

ACCESS began in Thessaloniki in 2000 and says it now works with around 800 boutiques across more than 50 countries. Haris Cotton has been operating from Athens for five decades, building its identity around natural fabrics and clothing made for warm climates.

Ioanna Kourbela comes from an even longer family story. The Kourbela family opened a hand-knitted knitwear workshop in Plaka, beneath the Acropolis, in 1971. Ioanna Kourbela assumed creative direction in 2003, developing a vocabulary built around movement, geometry and natural materials while maintaining production in Greece.

At the younger end is Kióhne, founded by Greek designers Lydia Vousvouni and Amelia Theodoropoulou after both had worked at Zeus+Dione. The label is grounded in resortwear but approaches the category through precise silhouettes and largely Greek production rather than the more literal visual language often attached to destination dressing.

What brings these businesses together in Milan is less a shared look than a shared question: how does a Greek fashion company turn design recognition into an international business?

The economic backdrop makes that question more pressing. Greek textile and clothing exports were worth €1.54 billion in 2025, down 7.2 per cent from €1.66 billion a year earlier. Clothing performed more strongly than the sector overall, with exports rising by about 1 per cent to €780 million. Around three quarters of the value of Greek clothing exports went to European Union markets.

Italy is an obvious place to test further growth. It was Greece’s largest export destination by value in 2025, accounting for 9.1 per cent of total Greek exports. Milan also offers something more particular to fashion: a dense ecosystem of buyers, agents, showrooms, manufacturers, editors and retailers operating within one of the industry’s established commercial capitals.

The 19-brand presence at WHITE is not an isolated exercise. Enterprise Greece has been building a conspicuously active fashion calendar this year.

Earlier in September, it supported 53 Greek fashion and jewellery businesses at Who’s Next and Bijorhca in Paris. Enterprise Greece reported more than 2,200 business-to-business meetings at the Greek stands during the three-day fairs. In January, Greece also mounted its first national participation at Munich Fabric Start, placing Greek textile manufacturers in front of the sourcing side of the European fashion industry.

Speaking after the Paris fairs, Enterprise Greece chief executive Dr Marinos Giannopoulos described the international presence in explicitly commercial terms.

“The strong and consistent presence of Greek businesses in international markets highlights the significant potential, competitiveness and outward orientation of the Greek fashion industry,” he said.

There is a larger shift contained in that strategy.

For years, Greece’s creative industries have benefited from the country itself as a powerful piece of imagery. The islands, antiquity, craft traditions and Mediterranean summer are instantly legible abroad. Fashion has made productive use of them. Yet international expansion eventually requires a brand to survive beyond the association with the place that produced it.

Wholesale buyers tend to ask more prosaic questions. Can the collection sit beside international competitors? Is the price architecture right? Can the label deliver reliably? Is there enough continuity for a retailer to come back the following season?

Those questions are less picturesque than fashion week, but they are the ones on which export businesses are built.

The significance of putting 19 Greek brands into WHITE Milano is therefore not simply that Greek fashion has made it onto the Milan calendar. It is that Greece is increasingly treating fashion as an industry to be distributed, reordered and scaled, rather than only as another attractive expression of the country’s cultural identity.

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