Mammut just let one of Japan’s most influential designers loose on its archive, and the results are gloriously excessive
Junya Watanabe has transformed Mammut’s alpine DNA into a seriously luxurious seven-piece collection
by Matt Kollat · T3
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Last year, Mammut teamed up with British designer Nigel Cabourn on a collection inspired by the 1969 Direttissima ascent of the Eiger, combining vintage mountaineering references with modern materials.
This year, the Swiss outdoor brand has handed the keys to its archive to Japanese designer Junya Watanabe, whose eYe JUNYA WATANABE MAN label has reworked the brand’s technical mountain gear into something considerably more fashion-forward.
The seven-piece capsule comprises six jackets and a backpack, with Watanabe drawing on decades of Mammut alpine design.
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The result sits in the perfect intersection of expedition kit, workwear, and high-end Japanese menswear.
You get oversized pockets, long technical silhouettes, bold Mammut Red, corduroy collars and enough black outerwear to equip an exceptionally stylish (and stealthy) alpine expedition.
From mountain shells to waterproof tailoring
One of the most interesting pieces is the WR-C910 Mod Coat, which takes the construction of a three-layer hardshell and stretches it into a much longer, city-friendly silhouette.
The WR-J911 Ventile Jacket is made from weather-resistant Ventile cotton and features utility details, including multiple external pockets and a detachable hood.
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Things get stranger with the WR-J910 Puckered Jacket, which is essentially a weather-resistant technical blazer with a three-layer fabric construction reshaped into one of Watanabe's more familiar tailored silhouettes.
It weighs just 413g and still gets practical touches, including wrist adjustment, an internal mesh pocket and a zipped chest pocket.
The flagship WR-J927 Premiere Down Jacket uses what Mammut describes as premium eiderdown, one of the collection's most extravagant materials.
There’s even a relatively restrained backpack (the most affordable option), finished with a rope-inspired grab handle and a small Mammut mascot dangling from a climbing carabiner.
The collection is available now, having launched globally on 24 September through selected Mammut channels and premium retailers.
In the UK, the Puckered Jacket starts at £555, while the Mod Coat and WR-J912 Jacket are £955, the Down Jacket costs £975, and the Ventile Jacket jumps to £1,220.
But the showstopper is the WR-J927 Premiere Down Jacket at a frankly spectacular £2,885. Against that backdrop, the £140 backpack suddenly looks almost suspiciously reasonable.