Simone Rocha Debuts Inaugural Men's Collection for SS27

The house’s first dedicated menswear show balances sartorial classicism with fragile hand-crafted embellishments.

Summary

• Simone Rocha has introduced her first dedicated menswear runway presentation for the Spring/Summer 2027 season
• Staged at the historic Teatro della Pergola in Florence the collection investigates contemporary masculinities through a theatrical lens
• The garments subvert traditional wardrobes by blending structured tailoring with delicate elements like pearls lace and fresh flora

The Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2027 men’s collection officially debuted under the proscenium arch of the Teatro della Pergola in Florence, marking the fashion house’s first dedicated menswear runway show. Centered on a deep reflection of contemporary masculinities, the presentation serves as a compilation of character studies that deliberately challenge and recontextualize the boundaries of the traditional male wardrobe.

The collection anchors itself in sartorial classicism, utilizing underpinnings as outer layers to communicate a sense of subversive vulnerability. Materials shift dynamically across the presentation, highlighting a rich textile composition of cutwork linen, Venetian wool, Broderie Anglaise, Fairisle knits, smocked gingham, and silk striped jerseys. Functional apron and pinafore details wrap across the backs of jackets and trousers, juxtaposing utilitarian elements with a fragile, tender power. Historical and theatrical motifs heavily influence the structural silhouettes, with floral patterns drawn from the linings of vintage costume trunks and Florentine landscapes transformed into custom souvenir prints.

The individual looks underscore the brand’s meticulous focus on intricate, hand-crafted embellishments. Structured silhouettes like double-breasted evening suits, backless jackets with apron ties, and wide-legged trousers with deep kilt pleats are heavily offset by romantic touches. Key footwear choices include nappa leather ballet slippers featuring pearl piercings, alongside buckled Oxford shoes with rounded toes. Accessories such as Gladstone bags with daisy closures, silk organza feather boas, tough leather belts with pearl beading, and hand-embroidered glass bugle-bead cornflowers showcase the designer’s ability to blend heritage masculine tailoring with avant-garde romanticism.