Wedding Dress Designers Want Brides to Rest Easy

by · WWD
Mark Ingram Bridal, fall 2024Courtesy of Mark Ingram

Knowing brides have an abundance of choices online and in stores, as well as buckets of advice from well-meaning friends and relatives, wedding dress designers and brands are trying to simplify shopping. From using everyday people instead of over-styled ultra-glam models to offering digital try-ons, bridal resources are trying to help shoppers define their views of the perfect wedding dress.

While many discerning brides will try on dozens of styles before buying one, some enjoy the search so much that they keep shopping even after they have decided on what they want. (The more enterprising consumers have boasted about trying on 15 to 20 dresses per appointment per Reddit.) Along with endless scrolling, there are plenty of in-store options from specialty stores to department stores and high-end boutiques. As of this year, there were 6,884 bridal shops in the U.S.

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Adding to their indecision — or exploration — is the celebrity factor with thousands of the newly engaged mining fashion, entertaining and gifting ideas from high-profile nuptials.

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Dealing with “very informed brides” can lead to high expectations and occasionally confusion, according to bridal designer Peter Langner. “Many brides are open to traveling globally to try on dresses they’ve seen online,” he said. 

Connecting on Social Media

He has found that showcasing images of customers and their weddings on his company’s social media platforms “resonates strongly” with his audience. “Future brides often seek to connect with these experiences, drawing inspiration from enchanting visuals and stories. Authentic reviews and real-life photos are essential, as brides appreciate insights from others’ experiences.”  

Amsale’s chief executive office Neil Brown said that fashion clients are demanding value for their investments more than ever, especially in luxury products. “The biggest challenge is assuring clients that the products and services provided are truly worth the price.” He added, “In retail and wholesale, we’ve expanded our collections to serve all attendees and events involved with weddings. We have refined the design, patterns, and craftsmanship of our offerings to ensure each wearer feels beautiful, confident, and truly themselves.” 

Brides are increasingly prioritizing online search, and virtual consultations along with traditional in-store experiences, according to Soucy’s designer and owner Mariela Torres.

Like many brands, Soucy is dealing with rising material costs and supply chain issues that are increasing prices. “That affects our margins, but it has also sharpened our focus on quality over quantity,” she said.

To try to engage a younger audience, the company is using TikTok for behind-the-scenes content and real customer collaborations. The brand is also continuing to use Instagram and Pinterest more frequently as an image portfolio to showcase what it has to offer.

That strategy is key, since brides are drawing inspiration from all social media platforms, especially Instagram and Pinterest where they have access to celebrity and prominent figures weddings. In the past few weeks, the multi Grammy-winning musician Lana Del Ray and Princess Theodora of Greece each generated plenty of attention for their markedly different nuptials.

Del Ray initially attracted a lot of buzz, when it was mistakenly reported by some media outlets that she had thrifted her wedding dress from Trashy Diva in New Orleans. The retailer’s Jillian Villanueva told WWD, “Although Lana did pick up some goodies from us recently, her wedding dress wasn’t the particular one she purchased from us.”

Taking Cues From Notable Brides

The musician had worn a custom design from Cinq, whereas Princess Theodora chose a Celia Kritharioti-designed hand-painted organza wedding dress. With many shoppers taking style cues from notable brides, some like Faye Harris, Eauso Vert’s cofounder, gives admirers more than one dress to consider. In August, Harris, whose father Steve is of Iron Maiden fame, wed Tyrone Wood, whose father Ronnie is of Rolling Stones stardom. She wore an Elizabeth Filmore gown to exchange her vows, and later removed the dress’ delicate overlay to wear a slinky satin dress for the couple’s first dance. Harris switched into a sequin minidress from Clio Peppiatt for the after party.

Weeks before, Harris opted for Self-Portrait’s “White Bow Crepe Mini Dress” and Sergio Rossi white mules for the couple’s laid-back civil ceremony weeks before in London. But due to a fractured toe, once the celebration got underway at The George Pub she swapped the classic mules for Reformation white sandals. While many brides-to-be can describe her multiple styles, one of Harris’ takeaways was audible. She said, “The part I won’t forget was in the moments at the town hall. Before we entered the room to get married, it was just Ty and I alone together. But we could hear our families coming together to meet and chatting loudly in the next room, which felt so comforting and fun,” she said. “We walked into a huge cheer, which was so special.“

Vera Wang has served up plenty of options — 45 to be precise — for the latest Vera Wang Bride collection that is being offered through her partnership with Pronovias. With styles that are short, long, formal, casual, white and black, the designer’s specialty is the fashion-forward.  

Paulette Cleghorn, creative director of Yumi Katsura USA, said that brides want their dream gowns and weddings to “feel utterly unique, which demands flexibility, customizations and creativity at every turn from the retailer to the manufacturer. Add to that the unpredictability of supply chains, fast-evolving fashion trends, and the fierce competition in the digital world, and it becomes a high-stakes balancing act between couture-level customization and seamless execution. Staying ahead means being both innovative and adaptable.”

Making Every Moment Instagrammable

She said popular styles include dropped waistlines, clean, classic dresses in luxurious fabrics like rich silks and brocades, and bridal separates “are taking over.” Yumi Katsura’s new “The Perfect 10” collection offers mix-and-match pieces for multiple, fashion-forward looks throughout the day — “from the ceremony to the dance floor, making every moment Instagrammable!” Cleghorn said.

The Justin Alexander Group produced 36,000 bridal dresses last year compared to 34,000 units in 2022, according to Justin Warshaw, chief executive officer and creative director. The Justin Alexander Group is broadening its reach with the debut of the Justin Alexander Studio, a platform that features custom occasion wear that can be delivered in just two weeks, plus exclusive offerings in personal care, lingerie, and other products. Through retail partnerships, Studio will be available through affiliate programs granting exclusive commissions and promotions.

With brides looking to social media influencers, celebrity weddings, and current fashion trends for style tips, “Instagram and Pinterest continue to be go-to resources” for brides to “explore the latest trends and see how different styles look on real people,” he said, adding that user-generated content is highlighted on the company’s site and social media to encourage brides to see what trends resonate with real brides and how they look on diverse body types.

Mark Ingram is building off last spring’s “Portrait of a Lady” campaign, which played up the classic bride but with a very “soignée-chic lens.” Ingram’s fall collection continues that narrative with “Part 2, The Lady in Question.” The fall campaign will feature 20 new gowns. Ingram has drawn inspiration from his mother Naomi’s poise and “deliberate style choices” like strong necklines that accent broad shoulders, small waistlines, and tailored fabrics.

Jacyln Whyte has seen consistent growth since the company opened a second atelier in Toronto for the collection and also for Whyte Couture, a company spokesperson said. Trunk shows such as ones with Bergdorf Goodman have been popular. The spokesperson said, “Brides are looking for the brand and connecting through social media looking for one-on-one appointments, and key retailers.”

Ukrainian designer Yuliia Lobachova manufactures “thousands upon thousands” of dresses each year for her company’s Ricca Sposa Couture, Ricca Sposa Atelier and Love by Ricca Sposa labels. The newest addition, Yuliia Lobachova Couture, will debut during this month’s bridal market and each gown will require more than 200 hours of work.

In the future, online try-ons will be offered to enable brides to visualize how gowns will look on them. This step, which will be accessible from people’s homes, is meant to make the dress selection process more convenient and personalized for every bride, according to Lobachova, who has a boutique in Belarus.

House of Gilles is showing bridal for the first time during this week’s market.Photo Courtesy

Some new additions will be spotlighted this week including House of Gilles, which will be showing bridal for the first time during market. Enaura will have the grand opening for its 4,000-square-foot atelier at 247 West 37th Street in New York. David’s Bridal will be talking up its Oleg Cassini fragrance, which is being developed with Tempest Consumer and under the licensing of Iconix International. Oleg Cassini bridal is the chain’s top-selling line. Many associate the late designer with Jackie Kennedy, whom he suited up throughout her White House years.