Threads of Tradition: How Handlooms Continue to Shape J&K’s Economy

Tanisha Kohli

In Jammu and Kashmir, handlooms are more than a traditional craft; they are a living heritage that sustains livelihoods, preserves identity, and contributes meaningfully to the region’s economy. At the heart of this legacy lies Pashmina, often called Kashmir’s “soft gold,” renowned worldwide for its elegance and craftsmanship. While the craft is closely associated with the Kashmir Valley, Jammu too has emerged as part of this heritage, particularly through “Basohli Pashmina” in Kathua district, which received a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2023, bringing renewed recognition to Jammu’s handloom traditions.

The making of Pashmina begins in Ladakh, where the Changthangi goat produces the fine wool used in weaving. From cleaning and spinning the fibre to weaving it on traditional handlooms, each stage reflects precision, patience, and skill refined over generations. Even in an age of mechanisation, artisans continue to uphold techniques that machines struggle to replicate, keeping authenticity alive through their craft. In Basohli as well, traditional weaving continues to reinforce Jammu’s place within this larger narrative of craftsmanship.

Beyond its cultural value, handloom remains an important economic pillar. The sector supports thousands of artisans directly and indirectly, while Pashmina products hold a distinguished place in national and international markets. Their contribution to the textile and handicrafts economy underscores the relevance of this traditional industry in contemporary times. The GI tag for both Kashmiri and Basohli Pashmina has further strengthened the credibility of authentic products, offering protection against imitations and improving prospects for artisans.

A defining strength of the sector is the role of women. Across rural and semi-urban households, women are deeply involved in spinning and preparing Pashmina threads, often through home-based work. Their participation not only sustains the production chain but also creates avenues for income generation and financial independence. In many communities, this has gradually strengthened women’s role in household decision-making and local economic life. The significance of handlooms, however, extends beyond livelihood and commerce. It represents a model of sustainable production rooted in skill, patience and human effort qualities increasingly valued in a world turning toward ethical and slow-made products. Every handwoven shawl carries with it not only warmth, but a story of heritage and resilience.

Yet this legacy faces serious challenges. Machine-made imitations, fluctuating raw material costs, and declining interest among younger generations threaten the future of the craft. Without sustained policy support, skill development initiatives and better market access, an important part of the region’s cultural and economic fabric could weaken.

Preserving handlooms in Jammu and Kashmir is therefore not merely about protecting tradition. It is about safeguarding livelihoods, supporting artisans and sustaining a cultural identity woven through generations. From the famed looms of Kashmir to the revived weaving traditions of Basohli, handlooms continue to show that tradition and modern relevance can coexist.

The story of Pashmina is not only about fabric, it is about the people behind it artisans whose work continues to shape the region’s economy while keeping its heritage alive. Greater recognition and support for this sector is not simply an act of preservation, but an investment in a living tradition vital to our collective identity.

The writer is a student of M.A. in New Media Communications at the Indian Institute of Mass Communication (IIMC), Jammu.