SETCHU SS27 Is Sartorially “Caught in the Nets”

Inspired by a trip to Gabon, designer Satoshi Kuwata brings artisanal fishing themes and “Japanese Square Knot” overlays to Milan Fashion Week.

Summary

• SETCHU debuted its SS27 “Caught in the Nets” collection at Milan Fashion Week
• The range features “Japanese Square Knot” leather nets and circular cutouts
• Genderless garments include asymmetric silk dresses and technical lime-green jackets

SETCHU’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, titled “Caught in the Nets,” introduces a poetic narrative inspired by designer Satoshi Kuwata’s travels to the abundant fishing grounds of Gabon. The collection evokes the concept of a “miraculous catch,” where artisanal savoir-faire and handcrafted finishes wrap the silhouettes to follow their natural contours. Conceived as a fluid, graceful and protective contemporary armor for a world navigating troubled waters, the garments are worn by a cast of largely genderless “sirens”.

The runway presents an intimate indoor setting where models are enveloped in literal interpretations of the netting theme, including an all-gray striped suit obscured by a massive, trailing black fishing net and an oversized wide-brim straw hat that holds a large, multi-colored netted canopy over the torso. Looks are structurally defined by a dynamic interaction between geometric archetypes – specifically the rectangle and the circle – originally informed by rectangular origami paper.

A surprise addition to the designer’s usual vocabulary includes rectangles of jersey held in tension by circular cavities that pierce tops and dresses to cling directly to the body. This aesthetic is prominently displayed on the runway through a black sleeveless mini dress and a white top, both completely riddled with large circular cutouts. Furthermore, silhouettes are enveloped in an intricate network of leather cords in various colors, meticulously tied using a technique known as the “Japanese Square Knot”. These fragile yet resilient net overlays drape over sleeveless olive dresses and white maxi skirts, punctuated by circular wrapped cord rings along the hems and waistlines.

Kuwata’s mastery of tailoring is further highlighted through sharp asymmetric black dresses with geometric slits and panels of silk that feature mysterious, concealed fastening mechanisms. Other standout garments animating the runway include a structured lime-green short-sleeved jacket detailed with exposed black zippers and drawstring ties, as well as a deconstructed olive-green wrap coat layered over a contrasting pop of vibrant fuchsia.