From a refugee camp to $173 steaks and a remarkable life after war
by Greg Bearup · Australian Financial ReviewGreg BearupSenior writer
Oct 16, 2026 – 5.00am
You couldn’t get a more perfect Sydney day as I jump off the Metro to stroll along the harbour foreshore to Meat & Wine Co’s Barangaroo digs. This up-itself city is prancing and, despite its many flaws and myriad vanities, today it’s impossible not to be bedazzled. I’m ushered to a table upstairs and out the window Mikala Dwyer’s cheerful sculptures, Monuments for Fishes, are bobbing in the water.
There’s been a mix-up in our arrangements and my lunch companion, Abang Anade Othow, has gone to another Meat & Wine Co nearby at Circular Quay. Not to worry, it’s a languid Friday, so I order a Balter XPA on the company coin and drink in the view as she Ubers west, beneath the Harbour Bridge.
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Greg BearupSenior writerGreg Bearup is a senior writer for The Australian Financial Review. Send encrypted tips to gregbearup_1234.09 on messaging platform Signal. Email Greg at greg.bearup@afr.com
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