‘Bring back brandy!’ – Aussie winemakers are returning to the still
by Max Allen · Australian Financial ReviewMax AllenDrinks columnist
Nov 6, 2026 – 5.00am
The art of brandy distillation isn’t dissimilar to the art of gem cutting. Just as a lapidarist carves and polishes a rough stone to reveal and enhance a jewel’s beauty, so the distiller discards or “cuts” the first and last spirit that dribbles out of the still – the rough-tasting “heads and tails” – and retains the finest, purest spirit, the “heart”, to put into barrel for maturation.
Or, at least, that’s how it usually works.
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Max AllenDrinks columnistMax Allen is The Australian Financial Review's drinks columnist. He is an award-winning journalist and author who has written about wine and drinks for close to 25 years. Connect with Max on Twitter. Email Max at max@maxallen.com.au
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