Blumarine Spring 2027: Cali Princess

by · WWD
Blumarine Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Milan Fashion WeekCourtesy of Blumarine

David Koma let his nocturnal Blumarine woman get a little sun. For spring 2027, he gave a twist to the Gothic romanticism that he has pushed during his tenure at the brand, having her muses head west to catch some Californian vibes and split their days between a pilates class here, a stroll in town there — and plenty of parties after dusk.

Inspired by the laid-back lifestyle and natural colors during a recent trip there, Koma conjured a wardrobe rich in pastel shades and contrasting elements, as he married the soft and seductive, the girly and the vamp, the surfer and the prom queen and the commercially viable with editorial theatrics.

The designer satiated his hunger for drama with a profusion of minidresses rich in feathers and crystal embellishments, as well as statement tulle pieces, with iterations going from Irina Shayk’s modern princess-y ruffled black gown that opened the show and its baby blue version popping up on a dozen models afterward to tiered tulle skirts in powdery hues worn with Y2K-heavy varsity shirts to lilac and yellow skirts whose allover ruched constructions evoked Blumarine’s distinctive roses.

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These were also floral prints on PVC bras, frilled shirts and bomber jackets, or turned into crépon appliqués covering the essential in the final see-through pink gown.

Plenty of lingerie-inspired minidresses and baby dolls reinforced the Lolita imagery, while the more active Blumarine woman was squeezed into jersey cutout leotards and shiny technical leisurewear enriched with ostrich feathers.

In between, the most credible pieces ranged from the comforting familiarity of Blumarine’s signature cardigans to the more eccentric cut-out denim pants. What is poised to generate buzz and sell like hot cakes is the collaboration the brand revealed with Ugg, revisiting the Enwrap clog style in two versions: one caged in a metal embellishment encrusted with multicolor cabochon stones, the other covered in ostrich feathers.