Torishéju Spring 2027: Bread & Circus

by · WWD
Torishéju Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Paris Fashion WeekCourtesy of Torishéju

We’re all a little (or a lot) distracted these days, what with constant social media pings, in addition to a constant cascade of devastating current events.

But on the flip side, there’s fashion, and all the fun it entails.

So British designer Torishéju Dumi turned Roman satirist Juvenal’s ancient phrase panem et circenses, meaning “bread and circuses,” into a commentary on a contemporary culture in which fashion can serve as both entertainment and distraction.

“I love creating clothes, but at the same time…there’s so much nonsense just put out there, and there’s no meaning to it. People want to feel stuff. You can’t just put out something for the sake of putting it out,” she said. “And [‘panem et circenses’] rang so true to what we’re living in in our society. We’re at a point where we have become the entertainment.”

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She straddled the space between entertainment and unease, sending out a deliberately off-kilter cast of characters in marquis-striped gowns, leopard print jacquard coats and trousers, and harlequin hats. A dress constructed from Nike deadstock was reworked into a slouchy cocktail form. Elsewhere, indigo denim was layered with multiple belts and external tuxedo coattails that added to the big-top atmosphere.

A bed-of-nails blazer brought the circus metaphor into the clothes with thrilling construction, alongside tailoring distorted through double and triple layers, while models’ arms were cinched back or bound, suggesting restraint.

Beauty-queen ballgowns were suspended from the front of the body, leaving backsides completely bare, and pushed the collection further into what the designer called an “uncanny valley princess” territory. Very cheeky indeed.

The designer took a couple of seasons off before returning to the runway earlier this year, and described the collection as both “wiser and funnier” as a result.

Bed of nails aside, it was on point.