Acne Studios Spring 2027: Prints Charming

by · WWD
Acne Studios Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Paris Fashion WeekCourtesy of Acne Studios

Still dealing with the aftermath of a historic European heat wave this summer, many designers are longing for lightness this season. Not Jonny Johansson. Sweden, it seems, is stubbornly immune to warm weather, even as its grueling winters grow colder.

“Global freezing, I call it,” said the Acne Studios designer, noting that “snow bombs” now routinely paralyze the north of the country.

That might explain why his spring 2027 collection was more about covering up than stripping off. Its central premise was a mashup of historical references, stretching back to the Renaissance, with Acne’s own history as a denim maker.

The opening look set the tone, splicing the brand’s signature leather jacket and jeans with a billowing taffeta ballgown. What followed — duster coats, leather breeches and pirate boots — was loosely inspired by ’80s pop star Adam Ant, whose “Prince Charming” opened the soundtrack.

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Johansson also name-checked the Vasa Museum in Stockholm, home to an intact 17th-century ship that sank on its maiden voyage. But the more obvious reference felt like Versailles, which is celebrating the 20th anniversary of Sofia Coppola’s “Marie Antoinette” with an exhibition about the film. Fair enough: designers from Jonathan Anderson to Junya Watanabe have visually referenced the tragic queen in recent seasons.

On the Acne runway, however, the connection felt a little forced. Faded damask ball skirts were plopped over white pedal pushers and a beige twinset, or a glazed white tank top and jeans. Trompe-l’oeil jeans provided a more organic foil for pretty floral and striped furnishing prints.

Denim is flying off shelves regardless of the climate, Johansson noted. “We sell a lot in Thailand now, but I’m just shocked about what they buy,” he remarked. Acne is also preparing to open a flagship in Shanghai, where winters can get cool and damp.

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As the brand marks its 30th anniversary, looking back is only natural. Yet with more stores in the pipeline, its future is already taking shape.