Venerdì Pomeriggio Spring 2027: First Sprouts

by · WWD
Venerdì Pomeriggio Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Milan Fashion WeekMarcus Tondo/Courtesy of Venerd

When Vivetta Ponti introduced her new brand earlier this year, she saw her second fashion child as an invitation to slow down and rethink the industry’s cycle.

After last year exiting the namesake company she founded in 2008, she’s putting extreme care into the new venture — whose name translating into “Friday Afternoon” in English evokes the desire to reclaim one’s own time as the weekend begins. It signals a renewed spirit more attuned to her personal values.

The seeds she planted with her debut lineup in February sprouted sooner than expected. Her sophomore effort offered a richer and more embellished take on her girly, whimsical aesthetic and built on her commitment to work with local artisans and smaller productions.

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For spring 2027, she left the domestic dimension explored in the inaugural lineup and looked outdoors with a collection themed after gardening. The inspiration was translated quite literally in the floral prints splashed on her prim dresses, pajama sets, robes and signature bloomers, as well as in the delicate motifs embroidered on trenchcoats, cardigans and denim pants.

The theme took a more eccentric turn when embellishments got heavier, with ostrich feathers and crystals recreating flourishing gardens on A-line minidresses and knee-length skirts. Echoes of the surrealist touch that defined Ponti’s previous brand resurfaced here in some quirky numbers, including a male model wrapped in a bustier to resemble a walking bouquet.

Standing apart from the more commercial collections on the Italian fashion landscape, at her second business venture Ponti seems even more convinced about reinforcing her sugar-coated world filled with retro flair, bows, oversize sailor collars and scalloped hems, rather than chasing fleeting trends. “I’m not trying to please the masses, we have our niche,” said the soft-spoken designer backstage.

Ponti’s aesthetic might be for a narrow and specific audience, but the care she puts into clothes’ quality and her attention to detail are evident even to those outside the circle of her acolytes.

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