Campillo Spring 2027: The Sun Also Rises

by · WWD
Campillo Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear CollectionCourtesy of Campillo

Patricio Campillo got lucky.

There was no contingency plan for the designer’s spring show venue, the Downtown Manhattan Heliport just north of South Ferry, on Sunday afternoon. But after morning downpours, by showtime the sun was shining brightly, a fitting backdrop to a collection based on the hues of sunrises and sunsets.

In his fifth season at New York Fashion Week, the designer created a collection he titled “In Medias Res,” a Latin phrase that means “into the middle of things.”

What that translated into was a sense of nostalgia or trying to permanently internalize things he finds beautiful, such as the hues of the sun, he said during a preview. That showed up in his most colorful collection to date with a soothing palette of soft pinks, yellows and burnt oranges that adorned everything from bell-bottom pants to short-shorts and flowy shirts.

You May Also Like

Several of the pieces included elaborate artisan-created silver and onyx buttons, cuff closures and other embellishments that channeled Campillo’s Mexican heritage.

In addition to the sun references, the collection offered up a wide range of pieces with horsehair trim. They included shoes as well as trousers and shirts. This season, the material has moved beyond merely an embellishment to become part of the silhouette.

Other key pieces included a single-breasted cropped jacket in a silk dupion fabric with the distinctive slubs and bumps providing new life to the piece. And perhaps the most interesting look was a matching cropped jacket and bell-bottom set that looked like leather but was actually a biological polymer made from bacteria.

Campillo also included a range of vintage T-shirts on which he printed his name as well as well-known logos such as McDonald’s. They came in both traditional and cropped options.

Beyond the collection, the show served to introduce Campillo’s collaboration with Tequila Don Julio. The designer created the brand’s 70 Anego Cristalino Artist Edition Bottle, which debuted at the show. The limited-edition bottle celebrated Dia de Muertos, or the Day of the Dead, and was intended to serve as a “bridge between the living and the dead,” he said.

The Don Julio was flowing both during and after the show as Campillo’s fans drank and danced and celebrated one of New York Fashion Week’s more interesting and innovative collections.

Collection Gallery 33 Photos

View Gallery