Dries Van Noten Spring 2027: Spontaneous Glamour

by · WWD
Dries Van Noten Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Paris Fashion WeekGiovanni Giannoni/WWD

Julian Klausner had fun for spring, exploring notions of glamour, imagining Hollywood actresses in their downtime, dashing out of the studio — perhaps on their way home or for drinks with friends — wearing a mix of glittering jewelry, mannish cardigans and sensible shoes, with a flash of heel.

He wanted to focus on the origins of glamour, “maybe it’s the feeling of a tight belt, or putting on a sparkly brooch. I love a brooch because you can kind of glamorize any old thing in your wardrobe. Maybe it’s a tight glove or even a flashy color,” said Klausner, whose seemingly thrown-together outfits glittered as bright as jewelry shop windows.

His models walked quickly around a vast white show space — as if they were late for appointments — to the rhythm of a soundtrack by the Italian film score composer Piero Umiliani. The music fused street sounds and honking horns with resounding orchestral music, adding to the show’s cinematic theme.

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Their wool V-neck cardigans were secured with sparkly brooches in the shape of swallows or clusters of flowers, and were layered over sheer skirts. Colorful pins sparkled from the thick straps of satin tops, while tiny adornments that resembled fishing flies glittered from the tailored jackets, and shorter bomber styles.

Leopard spots, that uniform of the Hollywood diva, appeared on coats with sheer overlays, while stars, kisses, flamingo and martini glass prints spilled over pussy bow blouses, pencil skirts and olive military style jackets. The coat that opened the show, a khaki utilitarian number, was worn with rolled-up sleeves and layers of colored beads.

Klausner put his ladies in shoes made for walking — classic pumps, color-blocked peep toes and a new style of moccasin with a little block heel. “I wanted her to have a good foot on the ground,” he said.

He and the team went further, looking at those same actresses all dolled up for their moment in the spotlight — or for a night out. They created colorful, vintage movie poster prints in Technicolor blue, pink and red for silky dresses and belted satin coats. Other statement pieces included an embellished gold coat that shone like the sun, and a dark blue jacket dusted with white star embellishment.

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Klausner said he wanted to give women the chance to add a dash of glam to their outfits — and some sparkle to their day. He described the collection as a “sweet way to look at glamour. It’s light and not too serious, and will hopefully make people want to dress up and play with their clothes. I think it’s very charming that people, deep down, and even in the most subtle way, want to feel like a star.” So long quiet luxury.