Tom Ford Spring 2027: In the Flesh

by · WWD
Tom Ford Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Paris Fashion WeekGiovanni Giannoni/WWD

Ooh la la.

Haider Ackermann cut loose, showing racy swimwear on the runway for the first time, and mixing it with his signature sharp tailoring, cashmere knits, leather and silk pieces. The collection, he said, was about freedom, and daring, but also ease.

There was a lightness of touch as well. A male model in a crewneck sweater — and a pale pink thong — didn’t bother to don his pricey vicuña coat. Instead he tossed it casually over a leather weekend bag and carried it down the runway. A female counterpart looked just as relaxed striding along in her black cutout swimsuit, deep-V sweater and killer heels.

It’ll be interesting to see how those looks, and other barely-there swimsuits that recalled Helmut Newton images from the 1990s, go down at the country club, although they should fit right in on all the yachts bobbing around the Med next summer, or at private pool parties in Bel Air, Calif., or Buenos Aires.

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Ackermann said he’s feeling more comfortable at Tom Ford, and wanted to be playful “and perhaps a touch more dangerous, which I haven’t done before. I was also searching for a kind of eccentricity, a decadence and freedom. There’s more nudity than I’ve ever done before. But it’s not provocative — there’s just this sense of feeling free and taking a risk.”

That spirit of audacity — and decadence — was pure 1990s Tom Ford, and lovely to watch unfurl for a new generation that’s unafraid to flash the flesh, or carry themselves with the swagger of John Travolta’s disco-dancing Tony Manero in “Saturday Night Fever.”

Models wore their sharply tailored suits — and jackets — in a palette of baby blue, black, olive and white, with nothing underneath, or with plunging swimsuits, bras or shirts that opened all the way down.

Silky evening dresses in the deep, rich reds of Tom Ford’s lipsticks, slipped off the shoulders to reveal matching leather, or padded satin, bra tops while others came with high, demure collars and geometric cutouts. Matching red flowers popped the lapels of jackets, adding to the collection’s old-school drama.

There was a fun nod to Hugh Hefner, the legendary Playboy magazine founder who spent his life in luxury pajamas, in the shape of a red silk robe with a TF monogram on the pocket, and in a lineup of languid bathrobe trenchcoats done in silk or leather.

Ackermann’s playfulness came through in other ways, too. For those who might feel a little chilly with nothing underneath their jackets and coats, there were Tom Ford logo T-shirts. Those logos also came as subtle perforated lettering on some of the leather jackets in the collection.

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He filled his runway with skyscraper heels and weekend bags, too, in leather, crocodile and linen, some of which came with embroidery.

Ackermann said he’s loving this new sense of freedom, the looser silhouettes and the barely-there swimsuits, and the plan is to continue to push fashion’s boundaries in the spirit of the house’s eponymous founder.

“I told the team I want to continue this conversation. Let’s have joy — and take more risks — it makes us feel good — and alive,” he said.