Beautiful People Spring 2027: Pitch Perfect

by · WWD
Beautiful People Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Paris Men's Fashion WeekCourtesy of Beautiful People

Hidenori Kumakiri continued to take his multifunctional clothing in new directions for spring. In the third chapter of what he conceived as a trilogy, after exploring “Side-C” and “System-D” in recent collections, he titled his offering “Tuned to a Natural E.” The reference was to guitar tuning — natural E is reputed to be the instrument’s purest form, drawing out its inherent resonance, which Kumakiri used as a metaphor for exploring the ways in which human nature uses clothing instinctively to protect the body, without concern for fashion or style.

His multipurpose garments were wrapped and tied onto the body, or carried and layered, comfortable-looking and quirky all at once, or as Kumakiri put it in his show notes “the point where clothing and the body resonate most naturally.”

Designed to look simple, the skilled patternmaker’s pieces for both men and women, most wearable inside out, upside down and in an array of other ways, were far from it. “In the background is a lot of complexity, pattern-changes, but in the work itself, it’s difficult to see; it’s like a hidden message,” the designer said through an interpreter.

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Thus a multitude of different clothing archetypes were worked into his garments, with lightweight raincoats that flipped into streetwise jackets, shape-shifting in the process, a hood becoming a design detail highlighting the back, sleeves demonstrating bewildering changes in form as the models paused in front of a mirror to switch their look. A tailored jacket was made up of two layers, its long lapeled waistcoat layer revealing a patterned vest with suit sleeves underneath. A breezy cornflower blue printed maxidress, with its dual neck-holes and tie details, looked just about pitch perfect for the ongoing Paris heat wave.