Durazzi Milano Spring 2027: Gallerists’ Fit

by · WWD
Durazzi Milano Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Milan Fashion WeekCourtesy of Durazzi Milano

This season Ilenia Durazzi worked overtime. Not only did she prep her spring 2027 collection — which took a looser approach to her signature tailoring and even saw prints added to her fashion lexicon — but she finally realized her longtime dream: to activate the brand’s headquarters and turn them into an attraction for the city’s cultural community.

She did it by calling a plethora of contemporary artists to display their works across the different halls of her space, in what she christened “The Atrium Show.” Running throughout Milan Fashion Week, a schedule of performances will round out the activation. From Iva Lulashi’s vulnerable paintings and Caterina Gobbi’s electric guitar set in motion through flowers to Davide Dicorato’s old scooter carrying three glass demijohns with goldfishes and algae, there was plenty to discover at the location.

To be sure, Durazzi has always had a knack for art. She cofounded her brand in 2022 with Maurizio Cattelan — who duly attended the presentation — and has constantly infused references to female artists in her collections.

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The combination of different media and the unexpected associations showcased at the exhibition inspired the spring 2027 lineup, too, which Durazzi titled “Assemblage.” The art show pushed the designer to revisit her sleek tailoring with cutouts and more relaxed silhouettes, as well as make room for new ideas with pieces meant to be assembled, dismantled and reconfigured.

Car coats and caban jackets had detachable collars, sleeves and linings, while shirts opened along sleeves and side seams to morph their volumes. While Durazzi’s signature equestrian inspiration was still detectable in details, a graphic mixing her personal archive of sculptures, photographs and everyday objects that was splashed over silk dresses surprised those familiar with the usually prints-free brand.

What remains constant is the craftsmanship behind Durazzi’s clothes. If last season the brand’s must-have garment was the leather bomber jacket, this time a pleated skirt in eel skin and silk satin stood out, proving that in a season where this feminine staple is the fashion talk in Milan, Durazzi can have her say, too.