Sergio Hudson’s Woman Is Bond, James Bond for Spring 2027
by Thomas Waller · WWD- Share this article on Facebook
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High above Manhattan in the Rainbow Room, a woman in a searing chartreuse pantsuit strode beneath the chandeliers, dark glasses shielding her eyes and a matching scarf streaming behind her. Another followed in magenta. They looked glamorous, certainly, but also as if their actual occupation might be classified.
Sergio Hudson had an explanation: “Bond in reverse.” For spring, the woman was the agent and the man the ingénue.
It was a playful conceit for loosening up the formidable woman Hudson has spent years constructing. “I still want that woman, but I want her to be able to express her sex appeal a little bit more,” he said. The strong shoulders and exacting tailoring remained, but jackets plunged low over bare skin, skirts opened into high slits and chiffon body blouses winked beneath suits. Embroidered lace translated an idea he explored in laser-cut latex last season into something more pliable — and wearable. Slim boot-cut trousers offered a newly lithe alternative to his familiar wide legs.
Hudson pushed color to near-hyperbolic intensity — fiery red, electric blue, chartreuse — but some of the strongest moments came when he pulled back. Black and white sharpened the collection, particularly in crisp shirting, sculpted jackets and long fluid trousers. White blouses are an important business for Hudson, and a short-sleeve French-cuff version demonstrated how he can tweak the quotidian without overworking it.
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There was some looking back, too. Hudson revisited the slinky jumpsuit he made for Kendall Jenner’s 20th birthday, which he said clients still request a decade later. But his world is expanding. Spring brought natural-diamond jewelry and eyewear, as well as his first footwear collaboration, a five-style capsule with Larroudé. Among the styles was Hudson’s signature pointed-toe stiletto pump, inspired by a silhouette his mother famously wore — a personal touch as he continues building the Sergio Hudson lifestyle beyond ready-to-wear.
For all the spy games and cinematic glamour, Hudson remained wonderfully pragmatic about what happens after the show. “At the end of the day,” he said, “we’re trying to sell clothes here.”