Jenny Packham Spring 2027: Dancing Queens

by · WWD
Jenny Packham Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear at Paris Fashion WeekCourtesy of Jenny Packham

Jenny Packham made some radical changes this season, whipping out shoulder pads, dialing down the embellishment and designing with a minimalist spirit. “I wanted to move things on and offer a more relaxed approach to dressing,” said Packham, who also sent out a lineup of dresses in chiffon and other lightweight fabrics with zero embellishment.

The collection, “Disco Couture: Part Two,” was a follow-on from resort and inspired partly by 1970s dance culture, and long nights under the glitter ball. The youthful designs were made for movement and included shimmery slipdresses in champagne gold or peachy pink. Some gowns came with sporty, tank-style tops, while other long and short styles had spaghetti straps.

Some dresses, and a black V-neck jumpsuit, were embellished only at the waist, collar or cuffs, with glittering, snaking swirls inspired by artist Alexander Calder’s jewelry.

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Others were more minimal, but no less beautiful. There wasn’t a sparkle in sight on a sleeveless chiffon gown with a pussy bow; a strapless burgundy style with draping at the front, or a lightweight, pleated metallic dress fit for a Greek goddess.

Packham said customers of all ages are looking for pared-down looks “in beautiful shapes and fabrics,” which made her rethink her lavish beading and rich slicks of sequins. She said even this season’s embellished styles only featured one type of beading, and she often worked with translucent sequins so as not to distract from dresses’ color, or silhouette.

She’s evolving the collection ahead of the company’s 40th anniversary next year, and there are plans for a rebranding, and new stores in the pipeline. The designer continues to be a royal — and celebrity — favorite, with the Princess of Wales donning a Packham gown for the world premiere of “Digger” in London last month.

Kate Middleton was ahead of the Packham curve, wearing an unembellished purple chiffon gown for the event and accessorizing with royal jewelry, specifically the late Queen Mother’s pearl, diamond and amethyst necklace and Princess Diana’s Collingwood pearl drop earrings.

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