Missoni Spring 2027: Dressing on-the-Go

by · WWD
Missoni Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Milan Fashion WeekGiovanni Giannoni/WWD

“Light, fresh and nomadic” is how Alberto Caliri summed up his latest Missoni collection. The spring 2027 show was another display of the straightforward and unfussy attitude the creative director is injecting into the brand, this time delivered by assembling a wardrobe on-the-go — one where dressing is never a brainy exercise but a natural act.

During his tenure Caliri is proving that in Missoni-land, everything spontaneously goes with everything, showing that the coexistence and combination of the house’s chevrons, zigzags, geometries and colors best respond to instinct rather than fashion rules.

The collection paraded at Milan’s cloisters of San Simpliciano offered further evidence of these free associations and of how the overall nonchalant attitude reigns over each piece in Caliri’s vision. Flowy dresses, relaxed pants, knits tucked into belts, and layering games conveyed cool-girl energy, with the models’ strut emphasized by the chunky talismans dangling from their necks.

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This season’s imaginary nomadic journey with no specific destination left room for Caliri to open up and experiment with new silhouettes. These included the balloon shape of roomy pants gathered at the ankles that were a counterpoint to his sleeker tops and slender frocks. The designer reprised an archival pattern first introduced by Rosita Missoni in the ‘80s, reworking its color scheme and lacquering it with transparent sequins for a liquid effect that stood out on second-skin dresses, tank tops and shrunken jackets.

The blurred boundaries between day and night were further expressed by metallic threads and sequins woven into jacquard textiles and knits, resulting in shimmering pieces that enhanced the sense of movement the collection intended to convey.