Undercover Spring 2027: Tricks and Treats

by · WWD
Undercover Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Paris Fashion WeekCourtesy of Undercover

Jun Takahashi became a master of illusion for spring, with clothing that tricked the eye and channeled multiple personalities. He drew on elements such as the “Groupie” logo, and zip-on components from his milestone spring 1999 “Relief” collection, for this latest outing, which was a visual and tactile feast.

There was a whole lineup of vintage-looking garments with distressed surfaces, including a strapless red velvet evening gown, threadbare as a pair of old theater curtains, and another one with rips and ragged moth holes on the train. A motorcycle jacket looked as if it had been dragged through mud and over gravel before arriving safely at the Paris showroom.

A denim shirt with wonky pockets and a suit jacket with crude, uneven stitching on the lapels looked as if they’d been repaired hastily, in the dark. Ditto for a wrinkled black-and-white silk tuxedo jacket with chunky, mismatched buttons and rough-edged pockets. It will take an actor with a great sense of daring, and irony, to wear that one on the red carpet.

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Trompe l’oeil details included ghostly, barely-there logos on the front of a faded red silk baseball jacket, cotton caps and oversize T-shirts that only the nearsighted would actually notice. Takahashi also added shadowy staining behind the lapels, and the belts, of lovely long cotton coats, making them look old and weathered.

And while the clothes didn’t have polish — in the traditional sense — they certainly had personality. Distressed coat lapels were dotted with colorful cloth-covered flowers or pins that said “The whole universe is completely insane!” while jackets had loose feathers, feathery wing shapes, lace inserts or draping at the back.

One tailored green jacket was sliced open at the back and embellished with a long sweep of cream tulle and flowers as if it had gotten into a tangle with a bride on the way to the presentation.

The designer also went ruffle-mad, adding rows of black cotton ones to the lining of a white vest and detachable tulle bustles to the bums of jeans and cotton trousers. Who needs the old stuff when there’s so much new vintage to choose from?

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