Patrick McDowell Spring 2027: Daytime Cinema

by · WWD
Patrick McDowell Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection at London Fashion WeekCourtesy of Patrick McDowell

Patrick McDowell’s spring 2027 show was less about red-carpet fantasy and more about the reality of a very social, very scheduled woman.

“Since we launched ready-to-wear, people are buying for all kinds of occasions from us, so we really leaned into that and doubled down on pieces that can make women look amazing at all the things they do during the day,” the designer said backstage.

On the runway, that brief translated into bright, optimistic color and easy, polished silhouettes. A jacket might top a pencil or A-line skirt for a midday luncheon, then reappear with jeans to pick up the kids.

“I always say 50 percent of what I do is the design, and 50 percent is the client,” added McDowell, who prefers to see himself “as a designer but also as a dressmaker,” emphasizing the made-for-her, not just made-for-runway approach.

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Inspiration-wise, the collection started with Wong Kar-wai’s “In the Mood for Love,” his boyfriend’s favorite movie, which lent a sensual ease to cheongsam-adjacent dresses and shoulder-focused tailoring.

McDowell also looked to early ’60s American socialite Lee Radziwill and her sister Jackie Kennedy, whose personal style informed trim skirt suits in sunlit pastels, neat shifts and coat-and-dress pairings that felt like a more liberated take on Parisian couture.

“At a time when politics was becoming more liberal, and fashion was reacting to that, perhaps this is my wish for today, that somehow we will find love and acceptance again,” he said.

McDowell also debuted a second collaboration with Aspinal of London on hand-painted and embroidered totes and clutches, and a creative partnership with Pandora, with three runway looks hand-embroidered in London and densely adorned with archival and current-season jewelry pieces.