De Pino Spring 2027: Through a Glass Darkly

by · WWD
De Pino Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Paris Fashion WeekCourtesy od De Pino

De Pino designer Gabriel Figueiredo channeled his discovery of Paris fashion world parties in the late 2000s in his spring collection. The suburban youngster he was at the time felt he had found his tribe, and looked back on the energy of the period with a nostalgic, slightly off-kilter and humorous eye. His former fashion choices — the designer, who was a finalist for this year’s LVMH prize, favored brands like American Apparel back then — were referenced in pops of purple and green in among the black, white and navy palette that dominated the collection, and in the zippers that featured on the back of his pencil skirts and one-legged pants.

Asymmetry was a key theme, setting his combination of sharp and rounded lines askew with single long sleeves on low scoop-necked tops or jersey skater skirts that were shorter on one side, peplum-like over a pant leg. Single flesh-colored tight legs were paired with a knee-high sock on the other side, accentuating the slanted stance on glamour. It was almost like looking in a funhouse mirror. For those who prefer their legs to match, he did offer up a pair of slimline black pants that did the trick.

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Tailored jackets were given giant contrasting buttons and dramatic opera hoods that hid the face, as did the elongated bangs sported by his models.

Figueiredo reprised his work with padding as a design media in its own right, creating a white cocoon dress, a bouncy skirt and a stole-like piece in which strips of the fluffy material were interspersed with silk chiffon embroideries, a design that took 250 hours to make. “For me, the idea is having this very sexy, funny, playful energy but also with a super-precise craft and dedicated handicraft,” he explained.

New this season, thanks to a partnership with Swarovski, the designer embroidered jagged black crystals onto an ultra-fine navy knit fabric that draped languorously on a dress and sweater.