Loewe Spring 2027: Something Old, Something New

by · WWD
Loewe Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Paris Fashion WeekDominque Maitre/WWD

Loewe is celebrating its 180th anniversary this year, and creative directors Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough are still trying to get their heads around such a long, rich and varied history.

It’s a two-speed history, too, given its rapid expansion over the past decade under chief executive officer Pascal Lepoivre and designer Jonathan Anderson, who is now helming Dior.

“The idea of the old world and the new world coming together,” Hernandez said backstage before the show, still staged — gosh knows why — in a characterless white box inside the fortified medieval castle, the Château de Vincennes, way out on the eastern fringes of Paris.

For their third show, they eased up on bombastic and high-tech demonstrations of craftsmanship, while still quietly skiving leather — and conscripting a former Loewe Craft Prize finalist to create gauzy, striped dresses and shirts of glass beads with the look of wet beach towels.

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References to the beach have become part of their zesty, more hot-blooded approach to the brand, and here high-waisted men’s trousers and women’s pencil skirts were splayed open over the hips suggestively, like a scuba suit unzipped and hanging off the torso.

Cycling caps, tech-y windbreakers and gorpcore colors galore fed an outdoorsy vibe — perhaps a little too much so.

The American design duo also wove in an appealing, low-key preppy vibe, felt in the polo shirts styled backwards, the squishy boat shoes and the chinos.

Basketball jerseys, another pure American invention, were interpreted as tiered, chiffon neo-flapper dresses with tie-dye trim tinkling with tiny beads.

“Our personal identities, our New England youth, our kind of ’90s spirit,” McCollough said, rattling off another batch of influences to mash up with Loewe’s roots in Spain, in all its baroque majesty.

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They noted that the heritage brand, founded as a leather goods workshop, only made its first garment in 1960, a suede blazer, which McCollough and Hernandez reprised on the runway, zhushing it up to fit their sleek, of-the-now approach to fashion.

To be sure, Loewe remains a reliable resource for a sumptuous leather blouson, here toughened up with a thick leather belt, or softened with a scarf-like drape, plus newer archetypes like a long shirt-like coat — or is it a dress? — in caramel-colored suede.

McCollough and Hernandez seem to be still relishing their discovery of Loewe, and hopefully it will all gel next season.