Sportmax Spring 2027: The Heat Is On

by · WWD
Sportmax Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear at Milan Fashion WeekCourtesy of Sportmax

Showgoers are loving the summer-like weather lingering in Milan — except when shows are held outdoors in direct sunlight, a scorching reminder of the climate crisis.

The design team at Sportmax said intense heat waves this year inspired a “longing for lightness.” Cue the organza pants, also seen at sister brand Max Mara earlier in the week, some power suiting in pinstriped voile, and a bevy of sleeveless coats.

It was a bit perplexing then, to see the long, blanket-like suede skirts, the double-layer blousons with high collars, and so much black leather — although the double-layer blouson did look fantastic, no matter the temperature.

Models zigzagged across a vast white carpet laid out in a courtyard, doing their best to get the tails of their bi-level skirts drifting. Offbeat styling included pinstriped Bermuda shorts under those organza pants, and leather clamps cinching free-flowing pants at the ankle.

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The collection had a low-key futuristic pulse, felt in the textured, racer-back minidresses, the gleaming silver rings resting on hips, and the Lucite heels and bangles. Outliers included loose jeans, striped business shirts and a jersey gown with a wire protrusion, reminiscent of Jonathan Anderson-era Loewe.

But it was largely faithful to its confident, slightly intimidating brand of city dressing: You might say it gives off an icy cool.