Giorgio Armani Men’s Spring 2027: Chic in the Heat

by · WWD
Giorgio Armani Men's Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear CollectionGiovanni Giannoni/WWD

With Europe in the grips of a heat wave, some male fashion week attendees have brought out shorts and T-shirts better suited to the running track than the front rows of Milan. Eek!

Then on Sunday, Leo Dell’Orco, men’s creative director at Giorgio Armani, delivered a masterclass in looking chic in the heat with a collection hinged on soft, unstructured tailoring, sun-kissed colors and light, fluid fabrics — including loads of linen, washed silks and even bleached denim.

Kudos to him also for the very brisk pace of the show, which also featured roughly 30 looks from women’s creative director Silvana Armani’s first cruise collection, adding up to about 160 exits. The evening section was nearly a blink-and-you-missed-it situation, as nearly a dozen featherlight tuxedos whisked by.

Guests were seated on the perimeter of the courtyard at the brand’s palazzo on Via Borgonuovo, and were then invited to repair to the garden for cocktails and canapés under the trees.

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As models poured backstage, some so excited they let out two-finger whistles, Dell’Orco said, “Silvana and I were inspired by the Mediterranean, its colors and hues, including the pastel tones, but shades were faded to the max, as if by the sun.

“There were very special textures, and the fabrics were made to look worn-in, treated with salt. For example, denim doesn’t even look like denim because it’s been treated in a way that it looks like shantung,” he continued. “The body is covered, but everything is very light. I didn’t show any Bermuda shorts as a matter of principle.”

Many of the things the late Giorgio Armani pioneered in fashion have come roaring back to menswear lately, including pleated trousers, cardigan-easy jackets, boxy shirts and slouchy knitwear.

Dell’Orco served them up anew with a light, minimalist hand, letting the lustrous, rumpled, gauzy or slubbed fabrics do the talking, along with his appealing tonal mixes, skewed to sage, beige, browns and blues.

The surprise was lightweight, pale denim, for shirts and gentleman jeans paired with navy blazers, or bleached denim for collarless tailoring.

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While a few camp shirts in black linen or floral silks were a tad ungainly, this handsome, breezy collection went down as easily as a spritz during the golden-hour heat.