Francesco Murano Spring 2027: In a Puff of Smoke

by · WWD
Francesco Murano Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Milan Fashion WeekMarcus Tondo/Courtesy of Francesco Murano

Francesco Murano offered a very detailed backstory about his woman this season. He was inspired by the sci-fi film “Metropolis” and its characters and wanted to represent all sorts of women — sinners and saints, goddesses and humanoid robots.

But who needs a narrative when the clothes are this good? Murano’s backstory became a footnote as soon as the first model stepped onto the runway, in what looked like a puff of smoke. She was wearing a smoky gray dress, light as air and made from jersey, with plissé pleats at the front, a high collar and fluttery skirt.

It was the first in a series of cloud-like dresses that floated onto the runway. They came in smoky gray, blush pink, peach and baby blue. Some had ruching at the back, others had draped and pleated deep V fronts, while others still had delicate shawls-cum-wings around the shoulders.

You May Also Like

Some came with long trains and high-slit fronts for maximum red carpet impact, while others were more demure, as in a long blue shirtdress with French cuffs, a pointed collar and a peekaboo cutout below the waist. They were simple but distinctive and showcased this designer’s ability to shape and sculpt slippery bits of jersey as if they were marble or clay.

Most of these dresses — and slim trouser suits with strong shoulders — arrived unembellished. The only bit of sparkle came at the end in the form of a liquid gown paved with coppery sequins meant to resemble armor. It was slinky and elegant and captured the many faces of Murano’s woman.