Mithridate Spring 2027: Princess Diana Meets Princess Julia

by · WWD
Mithridate Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection at London Fashion WeekIsidore Montag/Courtesy of Mithridate

Princess Diana meeting Princess Julia somewhere around Covent Garden on the way to the legendary ’80s nightclub Blitz was how Daniel Fletcher imagined the Mithridate spring 2027 outing.

The designer was visibly thrilled backstage that Princess Julia, a London-based DJ and fashion muse on his mood board, agreed to come to the show, sitting in the audience alongside English actors Asa Butterfield, Douglas Booth and Hunter Doohan.

On the runway, Fletcher offered his most dynamic, flamboyant collection yet for the Guangzhou-based brand, with a strong women’s lineup. It felt like a mash-up of Guy Ritchie’s Netflix hit show “The Gentlemen” and Ryan Murphy’s teen thriller “The Shards” in both aesthetics and character-building.

The anything-goes New Romantic dress code at the Blitz meant tailoring inspired by Victorian and Edwardian uniforms, low-cut briefs with fringe-scarf ties, bubble-hem party dresses, feathered-bodice dresses, tulle-framed gowns, candyfloss-pink ballerina pieces and over-the-top bicorne hats by Noel Stewart.

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But the collection’s core remained English preppy, as exhibited in rugby jerseys and ribbed polos in offbeat colors paired with sculptural, striped “school” scarves, as well as striped micro shorts under flowing trenches, shrunken cables beneath broad shouldered jackets, and relaxed denim with oversize studs.

“It was all about expressing yourself as best as you can through your clothing, and I wanted to do that with the collection this season,” said Fletcher, who wanted to explore more possibilities with Mithridate now that a foundation is in place.

“I think it’s reflective of where we are at as a brand as well. We have new stores opening this year, we’re really growing, and when you look at what we’re doing with accessories and shoes — categories that have taken some time to develop — the ambition is big,” he added.

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