Emilia Wickstead Spring 2027: Feathers, Daisies and Lee Krasner

by · WWD
Emilia Wickstead Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection at London Fashion WeekEdd Horder/Courtesy of Emilia Wickstead

Emilia Wickstead’s spring 2027 lineup was rooted in the work and attitude of American painter Lee Krasner, but it was the designer’s own taste for old-world elegance that filtered the reference into something quietly luxurious and modern.

During a preview, the New Zealand-born designer talked about starting with Krasner’s color, pulling those ice cream pastels and charcoals straight into feather-adorned tweeds and Shantung silk, and about her fascination with the artist’s uniform: striped cotton shirts, ribbed knits and studio-ready separates.

On the rail, that translated into bias-cut dresses with layers of tulle over daisies. The motif was hand-painted in-house, then softened under chiffon, so it looked slightly blurred, “like it’s on a canvas,” Wickstead said.

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Spring 2027 also marked the first time she worked with feathers as fluttering daisy petals, hand-placed over silk to keep things light. Elsewhere, pleated insets sliced into skirts and shirtdresses so seams read almost like slashed canvases, an idea Wickstead linked directly to Krasner’s belief in constant reinvention.

New for the brand, too, were shirt-led propositions, styled with more gathered, undone skirts to loosen her signature A-line shapes.

Instead of a traditional runway, Wickstead on Sunday hosted an intimate film screening in her Sloane Street flagship. Narrated by restaurateur Jeremy King, the film followed models moving room to room through pastel-toned interiors, with the camera shifting from close-ups of fraying hems and ribbons to longer shots that captured the artisanal ease of those social season-ready silhouettes.

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