Zuhair Murad Dips into Mermaidcore for Spring 2025

by · WWD
Zuhair Murad Spring 2025 ready-to-wear collection at Paris Fashion WeekCourtesy of Zuhair Murad

Zuhair Murad often takes inspiration from his travels, looking to Italy, Peru or Miami to tell stories around his collections. This season he traveled inward, to examine the emotion of transformation and building inner strength. For that journey, he arrived on the idea of a mermaid – a mere human morphing into a new being – and swept away structure with a slimmer silhouette.

Soft, sunwashed colors of light coral, salmon and sand were dotted with seashell necklines and other embellishments, overriding the need for accessories or other jewelry, or tone-on-tone star shaped embroidery at the waist on gowns. The simpler approach displayed a dialed down Murad, as he added more daywear pieces in skirt and top coordinates in cotton, while keeping his house codes with plenty of lace.

Strong-shouldered double breasted suits with a slightly flared pant were as classic as they were deceptive – open and lace backs added the layer of surprise and drama that Murad clients adore.

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There was plenty of structure in Queen Anne necklines and corset tops, while Murad dove into the sheer trend on several looks in silk and lace for a revealing dip. He forewent animal print this season for a light scale print with subtle shimmer. It was all classic Murad, with sequined columns and the sparkle that he loves, as well as some newer shapes with trains and bows on the bodice that will be strong candidates for his Hollywood clients on red carpet come awards season.

Elsewhere he tweaked his monogram doubling over the ZM pattern to create a new design that resembles a lightning bolt and added a spark to accessories including bags and belts as he strengthens his branding game.