Kiko Kostadinov Spring 2027: Light and Layers

by · WWD
Kiko Kostadinov Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear at Paris Fashion WeekCourtesy of Kiko Kostadinov

“We were thinking about light, and how we could reflect light on the body,” said Laura Fanning, a co-creative director of Kiko Kostadinov along with her sister Deanna Fanning. “We like to at times work at parameters and understand depth and layers to things.”

The Fannings looked to the creations of the late Italian multidisciplinary artist Nanda Vigo. “Her work is about light and creating spaces through the light,” Laura Fanning said.

They reinterpreted this through elegant textiles, by manipulating cotton and nylon in knitwear, creating custom fabrics that have both a shine and roughness to them. “So it was all about how we can layer transparencies, capture the light, delineate movement around the body,” Fanning said.

The grid patterns and geometric shapes (think wide shoulders on shirts and dresses) were reminiscent of Vigo’s early glass, steel, aluminum and light “Chronotope” pieces.

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The Fannings used a lot of graphic knitted intarsias, referencing Vigo’s light works, as well. “We tried to create space on the body through different types of pleating,” Deanna Fanning said. There are knitted pleats, traditional pleats on shirts and pintucks on velvet to break the light.

Garments in moiré materials came filled with triangular shapes thanks to darts. Coats were rectangular. Organza enveloped a few looks.

The sisters considered Vigo to be inspirational as a radical woman, who worked for more than six decades until her death, and had “no limitations.”

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“I find it hard to take risks, and I think maybe we’ve done that with this collection,” Deanna Fanning said.