Marie Adam-Leenaerdt Transforms the Urban Uniform for Spring 2025

by · WWD

How does one dress when everyone dresses the same? Marie Adam-Leenaerdt explored the conundrum by proposing a new take on uniform dressing with sculpted silhouettes and a touch of surrealism.

“When you dress in the morning, it’s easy to put on a T-shirt, but it’s a little boring out in the world,” she told WWD of her inspiration.

To counter such a static notion, the LVMH finalist offered a transformation of the common T-shirt with rigorous, rounded shoulders sweeping away from the form, and on outerwear with fabric stretched over padding like bubble wrap for the body. The volume was courtesy of a soft mousse shaper of sorts, complete with changeable covers. Those were delivered in candy-colored Starburst shades of yellow and pink on blazers and double-breasted coats.

She played with proportions in shapes that were slightly off-kilter, as if one is playing dress up and adding a childlike air, while voluminous jersey dresses played down their power shoulders in the soft fabric. It was all in good fun.

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Other looks featured a belt cinched below the breast while the dress was neatly nipped at the waist. Silk slip dresses morphed into loose trousers and capes, and the uniform theme played out neatly in apron dresses and pleated skirts.

A padded coat from the Marie Adam-Leenaerdt spring 2025 ready-to-wear collection.Courtesy of Marie Adam-Leenaerdt/Alessandro Garofalo

The Belgian designer keeps her pulse on Paris courtesy of the Thalys train, which speeds between the two capitals several times a day. She celebrated the connection with a show at a traditional French brasserie just steps from the gateway of Gare du Nord.

The café may have been called Terminus, but the collection proved the young designer is off to a strong start.

For more Paris spring 2025 reviews, click here.