Setchu Spring 2027: In the Net

by · WWD
Setchu Spring 2027Courtesy of Setchu

In addition to his transformative fashions, Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata is known in the industry for being an avid fisherman, since the hobby regularly leads him to disparate places around the world that eventually serve as inspiration for his collections.

This season, he cast a wide net — both metaphorically and literally. His catch? All his passions, ranging from Japanese cultural references, Italian textile expertise, Savile Row know-how and fishing (of course), converging in a concise collection where he turned up the artisanal and experimental frequencies a notch.

Literally, he had nets of leather cords informing many looks, tied according to the so-called Japanese square knot technique. He layered them over tailoring, sensual slip dresses, fluid skirts or flowy frocks in the more credible outings, or turned them into gimmicky props in the most theatrical ones, as proven by the rainbow-colored net hanging from a wide-brimmed hat.

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Still, there were plenty of wearable garments that could make for a good fashion catch. These included sartorial pants and skirts cut from an iridescent fabric that lent an unexpected edge to familiar shapes, and blazer jackets refreshed with elongated proportions or fits via side buttons. Subtle stitching running through blousons or down the crease of pleated pants were also an appealing way to add an artisanal touch in a reassuring way.

In bringing all his passions together, Kuwata added an element he despises for disruption. “I don’t like a round shape. It’s mass production. All you see around is in a round shape,” he said backstage, pointing to plastic bottles and soda cans for most immediate reference. His solution was to exorcise the shape with handmade processes, as he crafted arty tops and dresses out of metallic circles held together by strips of jersey.