Dior Spring 2027: New Romantic

by · WWD
Backstage at Dior Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Paris Fashion WeekDelphine Achard/WWD

They say lightning doesn’t strike twice, but a freak heat wave? You bet.

It was déjà vu all over again at the Dior show in the Tuileries gardens, as guests including K-pop star Jisoo struggled to stay cool while waiting for the show to start, with one attendee requiring medical assistance.

That the same thing happened in early March is an indicator of the climate emergency facing the luxury sector. Fortunately, creative director Jonathan Anderson has considerably lightened his hand since his womenswear debut this time last year.

Gone were the cumbersome pannier skirts and cage-like box constructions. In their place he offered fabrics that were light as air, starting with a female version of the sheer suit jacket that opened his men’s show in June — this time paired with a tiny circle-cut skirt made of 10 layers of fluffy ivory chiffon.

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“I like this idea that all of that, and the shoe, could go into a shoebox,” he said in a preview.

Anderson was in the mood for romance with waterfall skirts and jackets assembled from hundreds of hand-dyed petals, displayed against a backdrop of trees rising from a fog-shrouded pond. “The trees, the water, the smoke — everything kind of blurs into it like a Gerhard Richter painting,” he mused.

The designer has refined a number of codes over the last 12 months, chief among them his idea of “broken aristocracy,” which he channeled into shawl-collared bed jackets, lined with shearling and worn with python-effect metallic pants — another idea lifted from men’s — or checked organza coats with wispy fringing.

“I wanted to land on a vibe,” he said. “It’s removing the heaviness of heritage, somehow, from the brand.”

A key shape this season was an updated corolla skirt that paired a stiffer pleated peplum or skirt with a gauzy underlayer. But many of the looks had little, if any, structure, relying instead on an accumulation of pleats to project volume below the knee or over the hips.

If parts of the equation still felt unresolved, Anderson appeared confident in his process, explaining that it’s about refining ideas over time, and establishing a new vocabulary season after season.

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“In a couture house, you have to be very patient,” he said. “I don’t think you can come to an end result, and that’s the whole joy of fashion. If you’ve already arrived, then there’s nowhere to go.”