Learn About Venice’s Six Districts By Eating This Dish At Algiubagiò

A few weeks ago, I sat outside at Algiubagiò,, soaking up the sunshine by the water while waiting for a friend to arrive. I ordered chef Daniele Zennaro’s spring oysters and an Americano-a perfect pairing for a lazy afternoon. It’s my favorite spot for sunset drinks and an obligatory lunch stop after visiting a few galleries. Out came plump, juicy oysters, crowned with cherries-a delicious twist and the best accoutrement to a briny oyster I’ve had to date.

“This spring, I was inspired by the possibility of combining two particular elements-the cherry pit oil and the cherry blossom vinegar,” Zennaro explains. “In short, I had the chance to use a fruit as sensual as oysters themselves.”

If you’ve heard me wax poetic about favorite restaurants over the last couple of years, you’ve probably heard me rave about Algiubagiò—one of my current culinary muses. I first dined here two summers ago and have been lucky enough to return again, and again, and again. Every time I stroll over to Fondamenta Nove, it feels like magic.

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Algiubagiò is a stunning showcase of Venetian design and local artisans, housed in a building dating back to the early 1900s. It boasts one of the prettiest waterfront terraces when the weather permits. Restored in 2010, it still holds the charm of a traditional Venetian tavern, sprinkled with cool, modern touches. The space is decked out in Murano glassware, including one of my favorite pieces: a large, electric green glass-blown seaweed by artisan Davide Penso. .

Upon entering, owners Giulio Antonello-whose family owned the original tavern where locals once gathered for drinks-and Paolo Modolo, the sommelier, are always waltzing around with big smiles. While Zennaro is busy in the kitchen, he always takes the time to explain every morsel on the plate—from the schie (tiny shrimp) to the wild lagoon herbs that make salt unnecessary.

Since 2021, Zennaro has been dreaming up dishes that celebrate the lagoon’s biodiversity and tell the story of Venice’s intricate urban and cultural fabric. He emphasizes the use of spontaneous herbs harvested from lagoon sandbars from a local company called The Tidal Garden. All of the tiny details add character to everything he touches.

Zennaro’s dishes always keep a finger on the pulse of the lagoon. Take the creamed cod wafer—Zennaro’s clever twist on the classic Venetian appetizer—served in an elevated form I can never get enough of. Or the blue crab taiyaki, paired with samphire, ponzu caramel sauce, and trout caviar-a personal research project of sorts, exploring the culinary potential of blue crab, an “alien” species that’s now made itself at home in the local ecosystem. And then there’s the Banksy tiramisu, an icon at Algiubagiò, a nod to the elusive street artist rumored to have dined here during the Biennale a few years back. It’s a must-try for every guest. I find myself teetering between not wanting to disturb these edible masterpieces and devouring every last herb, garnish, and dollop of sugo. Scarpetta at its finest.

I’m smitten with a dish I hope Zennaro keeps on the menu forever: Venezia xe un pesse. In his seminal book Venezia è un pesce (Venice is a Fish), writer Tiziano Scarpa brilliantly describes the city as a living organism, each sestiere (district) a different organ, with its particular character. Scarpa’s poetic perspective transforms the cityscape into a metaphorical marine creature, which inspired Zennaro to create an edible version.

As a traveler, it’s important to look beyond the floating city’s postcard-perfect canals, gondola rides, overcrowded bridges teetering under the weight of tourists, and the iconic San Marco Square. Keep wandering, and you’ll discover there’s so much more to Venice. The city is divided into six districts: Cannaregio, San Marco, Castello, San Polo, Santa Croce, and Dorsoduro—each with its own unique character and history. If you’ve met Zennaro, you know his dishes are more than just bites—they’re where art and food culture beautifully collide.

“Creating a new dish always brings with it the challenge of choosing new products and combinations,” says Zennaro. “For me, this time, there was also the desire to tell a new story, symbolic of my vision of the Serenissima developed over these years at Algiubagiò.”

Venezia xe un pesse is an artful fish tartare that showcases Venice’s six districts through six types of fish and mollusks, arranged to recall the stylized, fish-like shape of Venice itself. Each ingredient represents a different district: Santa Croce features sea bass with samphire extract; Cannaregio offers mullet with coconut and truffle; San Polo presents scallop with coral ketchup; Dorsoduro and Giudecca combine Adriatic bonito with soy sauce, honey, and lime; San Marco includes red shrimp with robiola cheese and black pepper; and Castello finishes with langoustine accompanied by green apple and hemp oil.

“It’s a new way of presenting an established dish but in a fresh guise that pays tribute to this city—a union of commitment and work done hand in hand by me and Antonello,” says Zennaro. “We studied its feasibility both in terms of execution and production, with the goal of giving guests a unique experience of Venice, even while seated at the table.”

If you find yourself coming back, as I do on every single Venice trip, the menu will always look a little different—just as any menu that follows the seasons and what’s fresh in the water should.

I was lucky enough to devour the new spring menu before I left on my last trip, and I can’t stop thinking about the black gnocchi with cuttlefish and wild garlic. Zennaro tells me the dish encapsulates the variations of cuttlefish in traditional Venetian gastronomy and is an absolute must-try. And obviously, the Venezia xe un pesse and the salt marsh honey dessert—a tribute to spring-equipped with a pollen biscuit and crystallized fresh flower petals. It’s so light, delicate, and delicious (but yes, I still ordered the Banksy tiramisu, of course).

“For the spring menu, I wanted to create a tribute to nature’s rebirth, with special attention to lightness and gentleness,” says Zennaro—without forgetting Venice and its tradition and history. “All suggestions that I try to transfer into the dishes and techniques I use, with the aim of surprising, entertaining, but most of all ensuring that our visitors enjoy their dining experience.”