French Hotel Henrietta In London Has A New Chef - And He’s British

by · Forbes
The Henri Restaurant mixing French and English accents at the Henrietta Hotel in Cover Garden, ... [+] London.Chris Fynes

In the heart of the bustling shopping district of Covent Garden, steps from the bright lights of London's West-End theaters, the energy of street performers mingles with the din and chatter of restaurant terraces. On a quieter street just around the corner from the frenzy of the market square, tucked inside two townhouses, is the discrete French-owned Henrietta Hotel. Push the door to number 15 and it's here, on the ground floor, that you'll find new restaurant Henri, serving specials hailing from across the Channel but with a British twist. At the helm is the acclaimed local chef, Jackson Boxer, and he and his team are turning it into a destination in its own right.

After launching several restaurant and bar concepts in town, Boxer was enlisted to oversee the hotel's restaurant by French hospitality company the Experimental Group, best known for transforming Parisian nightlife with their craft cocktail culture. For their first UK foray into hotels and restaurants back in 2017, they chose this buzzy corner of London and opened Henrietta. And last summer, they tapped Boxer to turn around the hotel restaurant, as well as oversee the kitchens at their second property, countryside icon Cowley Manor in the Cotswolds, which they took over in 2023.

With a family pedigree steeped in food and hospitality, Boxer has been honing his craft from a young age, quickly gaining renown for his inventive takes on British cuisine at his other London locations like Brunswick House, Orasay and Below. At Henri, the chef reimagines Parisian classics through the lens of the best British produce, creating a menu that feels fresh, exciting, and elegant.

The dining room at Henri restaurant and chef Jackson Boxer setting a dish.Chris Fynes

Diners settle into one of the plush velvet banquettes in the intimate restaurant beneath the glow of candlelight. Start with the celeriac bread—warm, comforting, and served with a rich pat of butter—and the poached leek and crab, delicate yet full of flavor. The divers' seared scallops are served in a velvety smoked pike roe and champagne butter that begs to be mopped with crusty French baguette. And for those in the mood for meat, the ribeye steak from the chalkboard specials comes perfectly charred on the outside, meltingly tender inside, and seasoned to perfection. But make sure to order it medium-rare.

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Jackson Boxer blends French and English styles into his cooking at Henri restaurant.Chris Fynes

However, i’s not just the food that impresses. Longtime collaborator designer Dorothée Meilichzon brings the space to life with a blend of French seventies glamor and British pub warmth. With the earthy velvet and leather seating, the restaurant is both intimate with a twist of grandeur. Thick marble tops are laid over crisp white tablecloths, putting a contemporary spin on the traditional brasserie style, while brass candle holders add a layer of refinement, and hand-painted frescoes on the ceiling are a nod to a French château. At the back, an open kitchen hums to the energy of the team, and a chef’s table for 10 invites guests to enjoy a more private evening.

Experimental Group founders Olivier Bon, Pierre-Charles Cros and Romée De Goriainoff launched their first bar in Paris in 2007, mixing artfully crafted cocktails with a chic, speakeasy atmosphere that quickly became the toast of Paris. Their expansion across Europe and the U.S. saw them opening bars, restaurants, and hotels that maintained this balance of elegance and fun. With Henri, and Henrietta, they aim to replicate that magic, bringing a slice of Parisian savoir-faire to London's eclectic and dynamic dining scene.

One of the rooms in soothing green tones at the Henrietta Hotel in Covent Garden, London.Mr Tripper

Above the restaurant and across the street, the rooms of the Henrietta Hotel, which takes its name from the street it sits on where artists once lived, feel like quiet retreats from the West-End action. Meilichzon’s signature blend of minimalist and art deco touches carries into 40 rooms. Dusky pink velvet slipper chairs, brass bedside lamps, and oversized rounded bespoke headboards give the rooms a seventies feel.

The suites, with their freestanding bathtubs and organic toiletries, are a treat too, while a coffee machine and fresh milk (a rarity in most hotels) ensure the perfect English cup of tea or coffee can be enjoyed every morning. They are situated on the top floors and have views of the London Eye ferris wheel or Saint Paul’s Cathedral with small balconies that overlook Covent Garden’s brown-brick rooftops, and the towering Shard peeping out from the top.

Both at Henrietta and Henri, Jackson Boxer’s dishes combine with the Experimental Group’s trailblazing spirit and Meilichzon's take on French style, to create an experience that captures the pulse of both London and Paris well, offering something different in a city that brims with hospitality concepts.

Covent Garden's red-brick buildings, London, England.Mr Tripper