'Every town should have one': Jay Rayner raves over small restaurant in refurbished Rochdale Town Hall

A small restaurant nestled inside Rochdale's newly refurbished Town Hall has earned top praise from an esteemed food critic.

The recently restored gothic building has undeniably undergone a stunning transformation - and upon his visit, critic Jay Rayner was equally impressed by the thoughtfulness and skill he found inside the eatery.

The Martlet, which is open for both cake and coffee as well as heavier fare, is the new culinary offering inside the hall. Writing in The Observer, Rayner praised the restaurant's 'great taste and skill', adding that 'every town should have' such a civic amenity.

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The Town Hall, which has stood in the heart of the town since 1871, underwent a recent £16m transformation and reopened in March this year.

The huge project involved painstaking restoration of the decorative ceiling panels and angels in the Great Hall, the Magna Carta mural, the extensive stained glass, and the hall's beautiful painted surfaces and stonework.

In his review, Rayner called the refurbishment 'magnificent', telling readers to make sure they leave time to explore the stunning stone building.

There are also kind words for locally trained chef Darren Parkinson, who grew up in Rochdale and attended Hopwood Hall College.

Taking readers through several of the Martlet's offerings, he gives a nod of approval to several locally-inspired dishes, including a Scotch egg made with Bury black pudding, a rag pudding, and bacon chop.

"The Martlet is a victory of professionalism, good sense and, most of all, great taste and skill," Rayner concludes. "It’s a recognition that a thoughtful, well-conceived restaurant can be as much of a civic amenity for its community as anything else for which the council is responsible.

"Every town should have one."