Fifth-generation weaver Shirley showcases Iban weaving craft at BCG2024

KUCHING (Nov 28): The intricate art of Iban weaving, a cornerstone of Sarawak’s rich heritage, captivated visitors at the BorneoCraft Global Expo and Conference 2024 (BCG2024), with Shirley Vilin Ikok, a fifth-generation weaver and weaving coordinator at the Tun Jugah Foundation, offering an immersive glimpse into this time-honoured craft.

At 63, Shirley brings decades of expertise to her role as a weaving coordinator and research assistant in the Oral History Department of the Tun Jugah Foundation.

She said the weaving traditions she has mastered, including the Iban weaving techniques ‘Sungkit’ and ‘Karap’, require exceptional precision and time.

‘Sungkit’ is a supplementary weft-wrapping technique where the designs are created by wrapping coloured threads around the warp threads using a ‘sulat’ (bodkin) before the threads are locked in by the main weft thread.

“These techniques are deeply rooted in tradition.

“The Iban Sungkit, for instance, involves tying motifs onto threads, dyeing them, and then weaving intricate patterns,” Shirley told The Borneo Post.

The craft relies heavily on natural dyes derived from local resources, such as leaves and tree bark.

“For brown, we use the bark of the Mengkudu tree.

“Achieving the perfect colour takes several rounds of dyeing, sometimes up to five times,” she said.

Shirley’s passion for weaving stems from her upbringing in an Iban longhouse, where she learned the craft from her grandmother and mother when she was young.

She explained that in the olden days, the Iban learned maths through weaving as it required careful calculation, as errors can disrupt the pattern.

“100 years ago, our Iban ladies, they didn’t go to school.

“They knew how to weave, they didn’t know how to write, didn’t know what is a pencil or even a piece of paper.

“If you count it wrongly, the pattern will be tangled here and there.

“For every step, they used their language to count it.

“That’s why our great-great-grandfathers are very good in mathematics,” she said while laughing.

At the Tun Jugah Foundation, Shirley plays a pivotal role in preserving the Iban language and culture.

“I work on transcribing oral histories into books and recording them in Iban.

“We also guide university interns who want to learn traditional weaving techniques,” she said.

The foundation frequently welcomes tourists and aspiring weavers keen to learn about Sarawak’s textile heritage.

Shirley recalled how many visitors initially mistook the intricate woven pieces for carpets.

“Once we explain the entire process, from tying the threads to finishing the weave, they develop a deeper appreciation for our craft,” she said.

Shirley’s contributions extend beyond Sarawak as she represented the Tun Jugah Foundation at the prestigious London Craft Week and the 9th Asean Textile Symposium in Laos.

“These events allow us to showcase Iban weaving to a global audience, promoting our heritage while exchanging knowledge with artisans from other regions,” she said.

Despite her global engagements, Shirley remains dedicated to nurturing the next generation of weavers.

She expressed optimism about the future, noting that local universities like Universiti Malaysia Sarawak (Unimas) and Universiti Teknologi Mara (UiTM) have introduced internships focused on traditional weaving.

As Shirley continues to preserve and share the Iban weaving tradition, her work stands as a testament to Sarawak’s vibrant cultural tapestry, inspiring audiences locally and abroad.