Seattle’s 50 Essential Restaurants: Paju is No. 10

by · The Seattle Times

This capsule restaurant review is part of our ongoing Seattle’s 50 Essential Restaurants project. Find more at seattletimes.com/tag/restaurant-news and in print on Nov. 15, in a special edition of The Mix.

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No. 10: Paju

Modern Korean

513 Westlake Ave. N., Seattle (South Lake Union); 206-829-8215; pajurestaurant.com

Paju was arguably Seattle’s most exciting restaurant when it opened in 2019, making big modern Korean flavors in a snug, shoebox-shaped Uptown storefront, with a price point that represented huge value. 

Now ensconced in one of the city’s most elegant spaces in South Lake Union — formerly Vestal, it features a massive river-rock cooking hearth with fire ablaze, along with high ceilings, satiny finishes and just-right lighting — Paju has leveled up to fine dining that’s top tier for Seattle and beyond. 

Here, chef/owner Bill Jeong carries on, his Michelin-starred background still shining in hits like the smoky, savory squid-ink fried rice, a poetic little gem salad and a rosette of yellowtail with Granny Smith apple in a pool of cool naengmyeon broth. Wood-fired mains include prettily presented whole fish and perfectly grilled steaks with seasonal banchan (refills upon request); cocktails like the house vesper, made with omija soju, are creative and compelling. 

While Paju is ideal for an impressive date, consider bringing a few friends for an evening spent grazing through the starters and small plates. (And a pro tip: Lunch and happy hour at Paju both feel like tranquil little rewards as well as great deals.)