A slice of the Cyclades in Paddington: Rho at The Pilgrm

For a summer stretch, The Pilgrm’s guest-chef kitchen belongs to Marios Miliorellis and Rho, his roaming Greek-island table. Paddington is a long way from the Aegean; the menu is not. It reads like a childhood pantry rewritten for a west London lounge: smoke, brine, vine leaf, sharp cheese.

Miliorellis cooks from heritage rather than from a tourist postcard. Lamb Mastelo arrives slow-roasted, with smoked-mackerel mash and a crisp vine leaf — fat and smoke against something brittle. Tonos Lountza is tuna tartare, dressed with wine must and violet: raw fish, sweet-tart must, a floral edge. Metsovone croquettes come golden and stretchy. Kotopoulo Kontosouvli is herb-marinated chicken on the skewer, cut with spicy feta. Dessert is Aphrodite: Greek-yoghurt ice cream shaped as the goddess, finished with honey. Playful, slightly absurd, and the right last bite.

Rho sits in The Pilgrm’s incubator run — the same first-floor room that has hosted LUTO, Caribe and others — Wednesday to Saturday evenings, typically 6–9.30 p.m., through late summer. Book ahead; the room is small.

Where: 25 London Street, Tyburnia, London W2 1HH
Book: thepilgrm.com

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