Two Advanced Research Titans From Patek Philippe

When it comes to Patek Philippe, collectors often value the heritage and tradition that the brand retains. Despite this, Patek do not shy away from new ideas and developments. In 2005, Patek founded the Advanced Research department, one which was devoted to investing larger amounts of research into developing new and innovative movement components for increasing the functionality of its watches.

Here are two of the best from the Advanced Research collection, both with very opposing but equally Patek DNA, and both having passed through the hands of A Collected Man in London.

5650G — Aquanaut Travel Time

The Aquanaut is a sporty line up, and that has always been its selling point. It’s water resistant (most of them), it comes on a rubber strap and features functional and sporty complications, such as chronographs or travel time functions. All of this is wrapped up in its youthful in design. So on finding out Patek decided to use the Aquanaut as a platform for advanced movement research, ones curiosity was definitely piqued.

The above watch remains consistent to all Aquanaut traits, just like a regular travel time 5164. It is water resistant to 120 metres, comes on a tropical rubber strap, and displays everything you need to know about your home and local time zones. But the 5650G is also cased in white gold, featuring Advanced Research Calibre 324 SC FUS, somewhat visible through a small opening on the dial.

Calibre 324 SC FUS is equipped with a very special component. The Spiromax balance spring, made from Silinvar, Patek’s home made silicon derivative. This balance spring features a patented terminal curve which increases accuracy to a level that is comparable to Patek Philippe Tourbillon escapements. As well as this, it included a system with flexible articulations, made from conventional horological steel to set the second time zone on the travel time function. A limited run of 500 examples of the 5650G were made.

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5550P — Automatic Perpetual Calendar

Then we have something very much different. What appears to be nothing but a perpetual calendar with some quirky design features, is actually something much more special.

The 5550P is an automatic perpetual calendar, just like the 5140 which it so closely represents. A neat 37.2mm platinum case, with a perfectly balanced dial displaying every necessary calendar function in three different subdials. The indexes and hands are made from contrasting pink gold for a striking look. However, the Advanced Research Calibre 240 Q Si features a small improvement from its regular micro-rotor counterpart.

The major change on Calibre 240 Q Si is the presence of a Silinvar balance wheel. This came after the previous three Advanced Research models which introduced a Silinvar hairspring, escapement wheel and anchor respectively. This balance wheel advancement reduces friction and therefore the need to oil the component. Patek added a loupe to the sapphire crystal caseback to allow the wearer to appreciate the advanced escapement. The watch was produced in a limited run of 300 examples.