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Tzoumerka Villages: 7 Peaceful Mountain Escapes in Arta

by · Greek City Times

Tzoumerka villages cling to the slopes of the Athamanika Mountains, which cover most of mountainous Arta.

The range, also known as Tzoumerka, stretches across the northeast of Arta. Xirovouni dominates the northwest, while the Valtos Mountains rise to the southeast.

Steep slopes, running water and abundant greenery set the area apart. In addition, most Tzoumerka villages keep tradition and the Epirote spirit alive, and several rank among the most authentic in Epirus.

Kypseli, a quiet base among the Tzoumerka villages

At about 600 metres, Kypseli rises in tiers on the southwestern side of the range, 43 kilometres from the town of Arta. Its five neighbourhoods include Roupakia, on the opposite slope, as well as Loutsa, Kalloni, Agia Evangelistria and Ai Giorgis.

Old stone houses of one or two storeys stand beside newer homes. In summer, plane trees shade the square and its stone church of Agios Nikolaos, while small tavernas serve Epirote flavours.

A little further back stands the Folklore Museum of Pantelis Karalis, a window on life in mountainous Arta. He began the collection in the early 1970s and initially kept it in the village kafeneio. Then, in 1997, it became a folklore museum. It now holds more than 1,800 exhibits, from tools and costumes to coins, woodcarvings and weavings.

Kypseli may lack the fame of Dilofo or Papigo, but it holds its own among the Tzoumerka villages. Its charm lies in nature, sweeping views and rare calm.

A rewarding walk leads to the Holy Monastery of Evangelistria, which dates from 1704 and has interesting frescoes. On foot, the route takes about an hour and a half. Trails and forest roads also make Kypseli an ideal base for hiking and mountain biking.

From Vourgareli’s Red Church to shady plane trees

Vourgareli ranks among the best-known Tzoumerka villages. At 775 metres, it has cool fountains and streams, while about 400 people live here year-round. Its square, with centuries-old plane trees, forms the heart of the village.

Sights include the Archonto and Krystallo fountains, as well as two single-arch bridges just outside the village. About 5 kilometres away, towards Palaiochori, stands the famous Kokkini Ekklisia, one of the most distinctive monuments in mountainous Arta. Brothers Ioannis and Theodoros Tsimiskis built it in the 13th century and dedicated it to the Nativity of the Virgin. Because of its reddish brick decoration, it took the name Red Church.

The Monastery of Agios Georgios dates from 1717, according to its inscription, although other sources give 1690. Now without monks, it also bears the name “Agia Lavra of Epirus”, since the 1821 Revolution in Tzoumerka began here.

East of Vourgareli, at about 760 metres, Athamanio offers calm and genuine rest among the Tzoumerka villages. Together with six nearby settlements, this livestock-farming village forms a local community. Life revolves around the square and its large plane trees, while bare peaks rise all around. Sights include the fulling mill and watermill of Agia Kyriaki, as well as the single-arch Tsagkarakis bridge.

Agnanta and Kataraktis, marked by 1943

Agnanta, on the western side of the Athamanika Mountains, ranks among the liveliest and most historic Tzoumerka villages. Its houses climb a wooded slope at about 640 metres, and the Agnantitikos torrent runs between them before it joins the Arachthos.

Turkish troops burned Agnanta in 1827. Then, in October 1943, German forces burned 86 houses and executed five residents. Earlier that year, on 16 August 1943, Napoleon Zervas and Aris Velouchiotis gave a historic speech here. Despite these losses, Agnanta rose again as a symbol of endurance.

Agnanta also serves as an excellent base in mountainous Arta for hiking and for rafting on the Arachthos. From here, visitors can reach the Plaka bridge, one of the largest single-arch bridges in the Balkans. Following its collapse in 2015, it underwent a faithful restoration. Nearby, Moni Mouchoustiou dates from 1694 and holds fine frescoes.

Kataraktis, another of the Tzoumerka villages, sits at about 800 metres. Its name comes from the tall waterfall just outside the settlement. Similarly to Agnanta, it suffered in October 1943, when German troops burned homes and crops and executed 11 residents. The killings came in reprisal for the actions of the National Resistance forces.

Besides the waterfall, Kataraktis also offers the Monastery of Agia Aikaterini, dating from 1730, with its stone arches.

Waterfalls and views in the Athamanika Mountains

Theodoriana, the main village on the eastern side of the Athamanika Mountains, sits at 960 metres among rivers, streams and peaks. Its best-known sight is the Souda waterfalls, where the water drops about 25 metres. A signposted trail leads there from the village.

According to tradition, the Markos stream takes its name from Markos Botsaris, who sheltered there after the fall of Souli. Weather permitting, walkers can also climb to Stavros, at 1,390 metres, for stunning views. The spot takes its name from a wooden cross that Saint Kosmas the Aetolian placed in 1777.

Finally, Melissourgoi rounds out these Tzoumerka villages at about 850 metres. To the north, it looks out to Syrrako and Kalarrites, two of the most authentic villages in Epirus. Days pass gently here, with coffee and tsipouro in the squares alongside locals.

Nearby, waterfalls at Kefalovryso and Kryoneri tumble down from the heights. The Monastery of Panagia, in addition, holds frescoes from 1761. During summer, the boldest swimmers dive into the icy pools near the Koferitas bridge.

Source: travel.gr

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