Six Forests in Greece to Walk as the Autumn Leaves Turn

As the mountains put on their warmest colours, six forests in Greece invite walkers from the Pindus to Evia.

In the mountain villages, the air smells of woodsmoke and fallen leaves pile up into thick carpets along the lanes. Acorns, apples, chestnuts, pomegranates and walnuts also weigh down the branches of old trees.

Many visitors know the country only from its summer beaches. Yet the forests in Greece reveal the true pulse of nature in autumn, so pack a warm jumper and hiking boots.

Valia Calda, the coldest of the forests in Greece

Deep inside Pindus National Park, near the Greek-Albanian border, Valia Calda lies among steep ravines, cold streams, black pine and beech.

Read more: Four Quiet Christmas Villages in the Mountains of Greece

Its name means ‘Warm Valley’ in the language of the Aromanians, also called Vlachs. Even so, it ranks among the coldest places in the country.

Mist drifts through the foliage of Valia Calda, which sits at around 1,400 metres. The Arkoudorema stream, a tributary of the Aoos, runs past centuries-old Bosnian pines. Against these evergreens, the turning leaves bring patches of colour to the slopes.

Few forests in Greece offer such seclusion. Guided outings from Perivoli or Krania combine 4×4 transfers with a walk of one to three hours.

By car, Perivoli is about 460 kilometres, or six hours, from Athens via Grevena and Ziakas. Buses also run to Grevena, 43 kilometres away, while Ioannina has the closest airport.

Myth and oak trees at Foloi

Further south, Foloi spreads across a plateau in Elis, at the foot of Mount Erymanthos. Of all the forests in Greece, it may carry the richest legends.

The ancient Greeks linked it with the centaur Pholus, a companion of Hercules, and with woodland nymphs.

Thousands of oaks form a broad canopy over some 4,200 hectares. In autumn the leaves take on warm hues, so reddish-brown carpets spread across the flat ground.

Because the terrain is level, it suits an unhurried walk. A guided 8.5-kilometre route through Foloi and the Centaurs Gorge also takes three to four hours.

Drivers cover about 250 kilometres, or 3.5 hours, via Corinth and Tripoli, then follow the road towards Ancient Olympia. Buses reach Pyrgos, but a taxi or hire car is easier for the final stretch.

Where Strofilia meets the Ionian Sea

In the north-western Peloponnese, Strofilia brings woodland and wetland to the edge of the Ionian Sea. Of the forests in Greece on this list, it alone meets the coast.

Together with the Kotychi Lagoon and Lake Prokopos, it forms one of the country’s most important wetlands, part of the Natura 2000 network.

Stone pines rise almost straight from the sand, and birds find abundant shelter. The air also carries the scent of salt, as paths lead from shade towards the open coast.

An easy H4 ‘Umbrella Pines’ loop of 1.93 kilometres starts from a wooden kiosk on the Araxos–Manolada road.

Strofilia is about 270 kilometres, or 3.5 hours, from Athens via Patras and Lappa, while Araxos airport has seasonal flights.

Elatia, the largest forest of all

Near the Greek-Bulgarian border stretches Elatia, also known as Kara Dere, or ‘Black Stream’. It is the largest continuous forest in the country, where firs, beeches, oaks, birches and rare conifers form a mosaic.

In autumn the slopes turn colourful and the trails fill with mushrooms of every shape and size. Tall Norway spruces also give the woods a northern character, unusual among forests in Greece.

Streams and waterfalls from the Rhodope Mountains create a refuge for wildlife. Paths start at the forest village of Koutra, 72 kilometres north of Drama, near the riverside scenery of Stravorema.

Before setting out, arrange a local guide. Elatia sits about 700 kilometres from Athens, or eight to nine hours by car via Drama, while Kavala has the nearest airport.

Frakto, a virgin forest of the Rhodope

North of Drama lies the Virgin Forest of Frakto, one of the last untouched forests in Greece and Europe. Its core is reserved for research and conservation, so walkers cannot enter it.

With a suitable vehicle and the forestry authorities’ approval, visitors can reach the Frakto Forest Village. Permitted routes then wind among beeches, oaks, birches, streams and small waterfalls.

Beyond Paranesti, east of Drama, remote unpaved roads require a 4×4. Check with the forestry authorities before travelling, since late-autumn access is never guaranteed.

Steni, a day trip from Athens

On Evia, the Steni Aesthetic Forest is the closest of these forests in Greece to Athens, about 110 kilometres away.

It lies at the foot of Mount Dirfys, the island’s highest peak, where plane trees line streams and chestnuts take on autumn hues. The smell of village grills also tempts walkers to linger over lunch.

A beginner-friendly guided loop of about 10 kilometres climbs from the central square to Steni Rock. It then returns beside the Steniotiko stream, four hours after setting off.

KTEL Evia buses run to Chalkida in about an hour, then local buses or a 30-minute drive complete the trip. The summit of Dirfys is a tougher outing, though, needing experience, equipment and good weather.

Whichever path appeals, these forests in Greece show a side of the country that beach holidays miss.

Source: travel.gr

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