Gardening: How to grow potatoes at home in time for Christmas

Spuds are one of the easiest crops for home gardeners, so why don't more of us grow them?

Kath Irvine is a passionate permaculture expert, who has designed, taught and managed food gardens for more than 20 years.

She is also the author of The Edible Backyard, a practical guide to growing organic fruit and vegetables all year round.

She gives some tips on what to do - and what not to do - if you want to put spuds on the table this Christmas.

Wait for warmer soil - and stagger planting

It is important to get the soil temperature right when planting potatoes. Ideally, it should be at a minimum of 10C up to about 15C for faster growth, Irvine says.

For beginner gardeners, a soil thermometer could come in handy, she says.

"All plants resonate with a particular temperature and when you get that right, they just boost away, which is super-duper satisfying."

Potatoes do not like wet soil.

"So if your soil is wet and a little cold - as many regions will have right now - plant your first lot of potatoes in a bucket, which is a brilliant way to get some potatoes for Christmas. And it's perfect timing right now to bring some new potatoes to the Chrissy table."

Once the soil has dried out and warmed up a bit, the next crop can go in the earth, she says.

Staggering when and where you plant your potatoes could provide an ongoing harvest.

Potentially the first crop could go in a bucket, some could then be planted in available space such as beneath fruit trees and then - once space is available in the garden - they could go there, Irvine says.

"I quite like to spread my potato planting as much as I could through the year and in fact I even used to plant them in the greenhouse in autumn, because that saves me having to store a whole lot of potatoes... We always had them available for eating that way."

Potatoes need nitrogen to get them started and home-made compost gives the perfect amount of the nutrient, she says.

How to grow spuds in a bucket

Irvine saves her old broken buckets for growing spuds, as it is essential they have some holes in the bottom to allow for drainage.

"Put a lovely layer of your home compost in the bottom.

"If you're lucky enough to live near the coast, where you can get hold of some nice bits of kelp, put that in as well ... and then nestle your seed potatoes on top of that."

Place the seed potatoes on the kelp or compost with the sprouts facing upwards, then fill the bucket up to the top with more compost if you have it.

If you don't have compost, potatoes can grow in almost any organic matter - such as old hay, Irvine says.

The same method can be used if you are growing potatoes in a pile of organic matter.

How to maintain your potato plants

Irvine says potatoes are low maintenance provided you take care of the planting basics: ensuring the soil temperature is correct and there is good-quality compost and organic matter.

"The only care that I would do if I was somewhere that didn't get very much rain ... you would want to get some water [around the plants] once those tubers started developing."

Following these steps when planting prevented a lot of pests and diseases, she says.

Dealing with psyllid pests

If psyllids become a problem, Irvine advises using a very fine insect mesh to cover the potatoes.

"The psyllid has such a massive impact on yield and, of course, it makes them have those little hard bits. So if you want to make a mash you get these crunchy bits, which completely ruins it."

Any mesh cover needs to be put on the potatoes as soon as the leaves emerge from the soil, she says.

"Just lay the mesh really loosely across the bed of potatoes and weight it down - I favour planks."

Neem oil can be used for psyllids on tomatoes, but it is trickier with spuds, she says.

But if the psyllids get in despite the mesh cover, it might be worth trying.

How to store your spuds

Main crop potatoes will store well.

"You need to leave them until the tops have started to yellow - it's showing you that the tubers aren't swelling any longer."

Then you dig them up and leave them out to cure - which just means putting them on a rack in a dry area out of the sunlight, she said.

Then put them in sacks and put them somewhere cool, dry and rat-proof that has a bit of air movement.