In a New Light: HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE Reimagines the Pleat
HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE’s new collection treats light and shadow as design tools.
by Risa Koehler · HypebeastSummary
HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE's Autumn/Winter collection, 'In A New Light', translates the interplay of light and pleated fabric into innovative textile design, blending craftsmanship with technology.
The collection features subtle gradients, seasonal earthy tones, and lightweight, layerable linear structures.
The approach reflects HOMME PLISSÉ's dedication to pleating technology that moves with the body. The 'In A New Light' collection reflects that principle, treating light as material and the wearer as its ever-changing form.
This Autumn/Winter season, HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE turns our attention to an unexpected muse: the way light catches pleated garments. Titled ‘In A New Light’, the new collection translates the interplay of light hitting pleated garments into innovative textile design, treating this fleeting optical phenomenon as a design principle, blending craftsmanship with technology to translate reflections and shadows into silhouette, texture, and everyday clothing.
The ‘In A New Light’ collection features subtle gradients, seasonal earthy tones — a vibrant orange and a dusty purple — and linear structures that are layerable and lightweight, each piece showcasing how natural light hits and transforms pleated fabrics.
True to HOMME PLISSÉ’s founding idea — clothing that highlights the individuality of the wearer — the season’s visuals unfold as a series of portraits, where rather than simply showcasing the garments, each portrait allows the wearer’s character to speak for the collection’s theme, turning the pleated garments guided by light into something felt rather than explained.
That philosophy traces back to the label’s 2013 launch, when HOMME PLISSÉ built its identity on the technology of garment pleating: pieces designed to move with the body and adapt to it. The uniformity of the pleat has always invited reinterpretation, so the ‘In a New Light’ collection simply gives that freedom a new dimension, treating light itself as material and the wearer as its final, ever-changing form.