Campillo SS27 Brought the Sunset to Its Riverside Runway

Presenting one of the designer’s boldest collections yet, brimming with saturated color and striking horsehair details.

Summary

• Patricio Campillo’s SS27 “In Media Res” NYFW show featured a vibrant, sunset-inspired palette and relaxed, unconventionally layered silhouettes.
• The collection celebrated Mexican craftsmanship, notably highlighting vibrantly dyed horsehair fringe alongside traditional silver and onyx jewelry.

On September 13, the Campillo SS27 runway show was presented Downtown at the East River heliport. Hours before the show began, a lingering downpour put the event at risk of being rained out, but luckily the clouds had parted by the time the show began, golden-hour rays beaming down. 

In a preview ahead of the show in partnership with Don Julio Tequila, designer Patricio Campillo shared that his new collection, titled in Latin “In Media Res” or “in the midst of things”, centered around an outlook of “joy” and the “beautiful moments” that we hold onto with deep nostalgia. The theme was apparent not only in the models’ easygoing smiles but also in the exuberant use of color and the in-the-moment sensibility of the styling.

While last season, Campillo’s “Power and Restraint” explored more muted shades and tailored silhouettes, this season centered around a saturated sunset palette of red, orange, yellow, and pink, leaning primarily into relaxed silhouettes like short shorts, satin shirting, deep-neck tank tops, and distressed denim pieces. The show also brings in new graphic tees with clashing logos and distorted wordmarks, amplifying the playful, subversive attitude of the more structured garments. Some garments were worn twisted, tied, or layered in an unconventional way, a translation of the in-the-process approach of In Media Res.”

As Campillo is known for, the handcrafted details and artisanal Mexican methods were central to giving these pieces movement and visual interest. A growing signature of the designer is the use of horsehair, influenced by Charro horse-riding culture. The designer dyed horsehair in exuberant colors, which appeared in striking vertical fringe trims on trousers and jackets, as well as in a range of belts and accessories made with Guerrero artisan José Zamora. As explored in previous seasons, the use of Mexican silver and onyx extends to new jewelry and details made with Mexico City artisans Sara Pineda, Omar Genaro, and Carlos Andrés Sánchez.

Marking the Mexican designer’s fifth runway show at NYFW, Campillo SS27 continues to solidify Patricio Campillo as one of the most exciting newcomers to the calendar. See the gallery above for a full look at Campillo SS27 and stay tuned to Hypebeast for an exclusive interview with Patricio Campillo to follow.