Gel nails are under fire in the UK. Should India ban them too?

The UK has banned new sales of gel nail products containing an ingredient called Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide (TPO). The move has raised questions in India over nail product labelling, exposure risks and cosmetic regulation.

The UK woke up to the news of gel nail polish ban, and it’s never been the same again.

Getting a manicure or getting the nails a simple gel makeover works like therapy for many. Much like a dopamine hit needed on a bad day. There is something about the thrill of those prim and proper, freshly painted nails, the glossy finish. And then admiring them every time you eat, type or hold your phone feels like a personal aesthetic.

But the recent ban in the UK has put nail polish safety back in the spotlight. And it is a conversation India needs to have too. Unlike in many parts of the world, we regularly use our hands to eat, knead, mix food and handle ingredients. That makes the question worth asking: should India be looking at similar restrictions too?

Take a deep breath, girlies. Here's what you need to know about it.

The 'Gel Nail Ban' in the UK

While this is being called a "gel nail ban", the prohibition is not on the manicure but on one ingredient – Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide (TPO), which is often found in gel nail polish. Last year, the European Union also announced the ban owing to its concerns around its reproductive toxicity. Due to its toxic properties, it has been labelled as a carcinogenic, mutagenic, reprotoxic ingredient (CMR).

TPO is basically a photoinitiator. In simple terms, it is one of the ingredients that helps a gel polish transform from that sticky liquid to harden and become more durable when exposed to UV or LED light. While the ban came into effect on August 15, 2026, salons have been given a deadline of February 2027 to use the existing stock. However, now new products with the ingredient will not be sold.

What you really need to know about TPO

This substance does not exist in all nail polishes and gel products, and conventional air-dried nail polishes do not use any photoinitiators.

In the short term, repeated contact can trigger allergic or irritant contact dermatitis, leaving the skin around the nails red, itchy, painful or even blistered. It can also contribute to nail breakage and separation.

Longer-term concerns are more serious: animal studies involving high doses have linked TPO to hormone disruption and reproductive toxicity, including infertility and birth defects, as well as potential cancer risks. Speaking of cancer risk, the UV light used for hardening also poses a risk if exposed for a long time.

Who knew a simple gel manicure could be this risky? But there's a caveat here.

"The amount of TPO used in gel nail products is very small, so these risks cannot simply be applied to every person getting a gel manicure. The health risk associated with this substance will depend on such factors as the amount, frequency, duration, and way of exposure," Dr Sandeep Arora, senior consultant, dermatology, Apollo Spectra Hospital, Delhi, tells India Today.

Experts believe that this is more of a precautionary measure.

Read your nail polish

Today, we scrutinise our food to understand the carbs, calorie, protein and more. Experts recommend doing the same with your glittery nail paints too.

Yup, time to do some research before you get your nails done.

Various nail products can carry certain substances that can cause irritation, allergic reactions, and sensitivity, and salon workers may come into more contact with such substances, as they use these products daily.

"Beyond TPO, gel products can contain ingredients such as HEMA and HPMA, while conventional nail polishes may contain formaldehyde, camphor, toluene and xylene; the risk varies from person to person, with some ingredients known to cause irritation or allergic reactions," Dr Sunitha Pendyal, senior consultant-clinical & aesthetic dermatologist, Arete Hospitals, cautions.

So... should India ban TPO-based gel nails?

As far as eating with hands where nails are covered in nail art is concerned, Dr Pendyal makes a clarification: "Nail polish chips can enter into our digestive system if it peels off, but can be harmless as it’s a very minuscule amount."

Dr Arora adds how one must not assume that hand contact with any food means that there would be an intake of some substance from a nail product, as actual contact with such products varies greatly in terms of the type of product, formula, content and condition of its coat.

Let's not get very ahead of ourselves.

Experts highly suggest that India needs stricter regulations and legislation for the cosmetics industry in terms of labelling and safety testing.

While banning it immediately will require more research and data on human, all cosmetic products, including nail polishes, should display the date of manufacturing, shelf life when unopened, and expiry date from the date of opening the bottle. All the ingredients, in minute detail, should also be clearly mentioned. While some brands and e-commerce websites have ingredient lists, many still don't.

Read this before your next manicure

Dr Pendyal suggests looking for a change in the smell or consistency, hardness, and, if any allergic reactions happen, noting all the compositions of that particular brand. The best solution is to select products manufactured by well-known companies whose ingredient lists are clear.

Dermats also suggest alternatives that may suit consumers better, depending on personal preferences and the condition of their nails. According to Dr Arora, conventional nail polish that is air-dried and does not need to be UV-cured is a possible choice for those who prefer to stay away from gel formulas.

Don't worry, we have got you covered. Here's a detailed version: what else you need to know before getting your manicures and extensions done!

A little awareness and you can probably nail it!

- Ends