Onboard a romantic cruise clipper perfect for travellers who can't stomach megaships

Jane Haase enjoys the sights, sounds and tastes of the Med on board a luxury clipper, stopping off at Portoferraio, Bonifacio, Alghero, Ajaccio, Calvi (where Christopher Columbus was born) and St Tropez

Vast canvas sails gently flap in the night breeze as couples dressed in white take to the deck to the strains of Sailing by Christopher Cross. A bright silver moon bobs up and down as if dancing with the people below.

This illusion is caused by the sway of a slightly choppy Mediterranean Sea but nobody seems to notice on a magical evening on board the Star Flyer clipper. We are enjoying a White Night party and light show which sees glittering hearts projected on to illuminated sails and passengers dressed accordingly. It is a romantic sight befitting the style of ship we are sailing on.

Cruising had never really appealed to me before. Those floating behemoths carrying thousands of passengers just looked too overwhelming. But the chance to experience a more golden age of travel on a tall ship, carrying around 140 guests, was much more attractive.

Styled on the clippers of the 19thcentury, our four-masted, 16-sail vessel is a beauty – all cream and white with expansive teak decks, gleaming mahogany rails and polished brass. It looks particularly impressive on our nightly sailaway, when we gather to watch the crew hoist the sails to a rousing chorus of Conquest Of Paradise by Vangelis blasting out from the speakers.

And this is not just for show. Our Croatian captain Ante Basica tells me they use sail over engine whenever the winds, and schedule, will allow.

My husband Ian and I have joined a Riviera Travel trip which will take us from Rome’s port of Civitavecchia to the South of France, stopping off at Portoferraio, Bonifacio, Alghero, Ajaccio, Calvi (where Christopher Columbus was born) and St Tropez, before disembarking at Cannes. We will cover around 628 nautical miles, and mainly sail at night, ending up in a new port every day.

Our cabin is comfy and ­ship-shape, complete with regulation lifejackets. The double bed is quite spacious – even for my 6ft 4in hubby. Once unpacked, suitcases fit neatly under the bed and there is plenty of wardrobe space, and a vanity unit and stool, plus hairdryer. The bathroom is compact, with a decent shower, and our cabin has a porthole through which we glimpse our new destinations. Every day provides the opportunity to explore some beautiful and interesting places. Several ports of call are in Corsica which is a first for us.

The mountainous Mediterranean island off the west coast of Italy and the south-east coast of France has a fascinating and turbulent history, having been governed by the French since it was handed over by the Republic of Genoa to pay debts in 1768. We visit its capital, Ajaccio, where Napoleon Bonaparte was born. His ancestral home, Maison Bonaparte, is now a museum and you can also visit the modest 16th-century Notre-Dame Cathedral, where he was baptised.

Carrying on the theme, we also spend an afternoon on the lush Italian island of Elba, where the French emperor spent 10 months in exile. Guided tours are included in the cruise price or you can just do your own thing and enjoy shopping and sightseeing or a trip to the beach.

Then it’s back on board for time to relax on deck before our nightly briefing in the Tropical Bar from our cruise director, the capable Sarah Keyes, about the following day’s activities. Most guests disembark each day but if you stay onboard there is a small Edwardian-style library and a larger, air-conditioned Piano Bar for chilling in. Earlybirds can enjoy morning yoga and fitness sessions on deck, and there are areas with sunbeds and two plunge pools to cool off in which we needed with temperatures pushing 30C.

You can also get a taste of a sailor’s life by attending a knot-tying session, climb the 65ft to the crow’s nest (secured by a safety harness), help hoist the sails, or lie in the bowsprit net suspended above the waves (not as comfortable as it looks). You get an enforced digital detox at sea, which is no bad thing, as it’s not easy to get a signal in the middle of the ocean although you can pay for a wi-fi package or use the more expensive maritime data. But instead of scrolling you can just relax, find a quiet spot on deck to read a book, look out for passing dolphins or wave to fellow sailors.

And, of course, there is the food. As well as three meals a day, snacks are served at 5pm and midnight! It’s very relaxed on Star Flyer with the dress code smart casual for the evening. There is no designated seating plan in the large dining room and we really enjoy getting to know our fellow passengers.

Many are making the most of their well-earned retirement and quite a few of those we chat to are repeat Riviera Travel customers who have enjoyed the company’s river cruises too. They have definitely caught the cruising bug and are already planning their next trip.

Breakfast is a buffet affair with hot and cold options as well as an omelette station where I have a delicious smoked salmon dish most mornings. Lunch is usually themed, again with a great choice, while evening is à la carte, served to your table. All meals and soft drinks are included but you pay extra for alcohol which is reasonably priced. A decent bottle of Chardonnay was €16 while a beer or glass of wine was €3.50.

Food and service is first class. Black tie is not required although guests dress up a bit for the Captain’s dinner where we feast on scallops and lobster tail before the lights are dimmed and staff carry in an amazing baked Alaska dessert, complete with sparklers. There is some nightly ­entertainment such as a crew fashion show and a pirate games night, and a highlight is the talent show with crew and passengers showing off their hidden talents.

A big advantage of a cruise is how it gives you a flavour of so many different places. One stop-off we would definitely return to is the historic town of Bonifacio at the southernmost tip of Corsica. It has a pretty yacht-filled marina where our guide reveals the fuel bill is never less than €10,000.

We take the little tourist train up to the medieval city which sits atop limestone cliffs. It boasts ­spectacularviews of neighbouring Sardinia from the piazza and has a distinctly Italian feel as we meander through narrow streets lined with shops and restaurants. Once back on board, as we prepare to leave, we are treated to the sight of a procession of huge, luxury vessels returning after a day’s sailing.

The Star Flyer more than holds its own in such company, receiving many admiring glances. As the sun sets, I find a quiet place on deck and listen to the creak of the ship as I look out to sea with the breeze on my face. I feel like I am on my own private mega yacht.

And more seafaring adventures definitely await.

Book the holiday

• Riviera Travel offers an 11-day voyage on Star Flyer from £2,999pp, departing from Piraeus (Athens) on October 16, 2026, and calling at Nafplion, Monemvasia and Pylos in Greece; Taormina and Syracuse in Sicily, Italy; and Gozo and Valletta in Malta. Includes flights from Heathrow, Manchester, Gatwick or Luton and transfers, one-night stay in Athens pre-cruise, 10 included experiences, one-night stay in Malta post cruise and the services of an expert tour manager. rivieratravel.co.uk
• More info at visitgreece.gr italia.it visitmalta.com