The FDA Has Approved a New Sunscreen Filter for the First Time in More Than 25 Years
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· CosmopolitanGood news for those of us who allocate time on every trip abroad to shop the local pharmacies and overpack our suitcases with sunscreen: the FDA has approved a new UV filter for the first time in more than 25 years.
Bemotrizinol (known as BEMT), a chemical sunscreen filter that has long been used in European and Asian SPF formulas, has finally been cleared for use in the United States.
There are a host of reasons why BEMT is so beloved by dermatologists—it offers broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection, feels lightweight on the skin, and is well-tolerated by sensitive skin types. It's one of the reasons the sunscreens we buy overseas feel so cosmetically elegant compared to formulas available stateside.
"BEMT has been around in Europe and Asia for years, and it's so liked because it doesn't leave behind a white cast," says dermatologist Karan Lal, MD. "It works great for UVA and UVB broad-spectrum protection, and you can formulate it alongside other chemical and mineral filters to help stabilize them."
BEMT has several advantages that set it apart from older UV filters. "BEMT has a large molecular size, which means it has a low risk of systemic absorption through the skin," says Dr. Lal. "It's also highly photostable, meaning it doesn't get broken down by UV exposure the way some older chemical filters can."
This will hopefully lead to a new generation of sunscreen formulas. Because BEMT plays well with other UV filters and its whitecast-free finish, brands will have greater flexibility when formulating lightweight sunscreens, tinted SPFs, and products with broader shade ranges.
That doesn't mean you'll see BEMT on shelves tomorrow, though. According to Dr. Lal, it could take anywhere from three months to a year before products containing the filter begin hitting the market.
"You can't just throw the filter into a formula," he explains. "Brands have to make sure the entire formula is still stable because certain ingredients work better with each other. There's a lot of R&D that has to happen."
One sunscreen in particular that beauty enthusiasts (like myself) are hoping to see updated is La Roche-Posay's cult-favorite Anthelios UVMune 400 SPF 50+, which has become a staple purchase for Americans visiting Europe. While BEMT's approval alone doesn't mean the exact European formula will immediately come to the U.S., it’s a significant step toward bringing more advanced sunscreen technology stateside.
So, if you've been using every trip to Paris or Seoul as an excuse to stock up on sunscreen, you might finally be able to pack a little lighter. It’ll still take time for brands to reformulate and get new products on shelves, but the next generation of U.S. sunscreens is finally getting closer.
- Karan Lal, MD, is a double board-certified adult, pediatric, and cosmetic dermatologist based in Scottsdale, AZ.
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Jasmine Hyman is the assistant beauty editor at Cosmo. She is obsessed with all things skincare and has written countless sunscreen stories in her career. For this piece, she consulted with multiple experts, including dermatologist Karan Lal, MD.
Jasmine Hyman is the Assistant Beauty Editor at Cosmopolitan, where she writes about the latest beauty trends and must-have products. Her most prized beauty possessions are a meticulous skincare routine and salon blowouts. You’ll also likely find her in bed reading a good book or endlessly scrolling TikTok (spoiler: it’s usually the latter) while listening to Harry Styles’ entire discography on repeat. Follow her on Insta to be inundated with pictures of her meals.